Clothing is much more than just pieces of fabric covering the body. Throughout human history, elements of fashion have often become the loudest visual manifestos. When words are forbidden or insufficient, clothing becomes a weapon for social, political, or cultural change
History is full of designers who used fashion to express not just beauty, but political and social ideas. Their collections often sparked scandal because they directly challenged established norms.
For instance, Vivienne Westwood is known as the "Queen of Punk." In the '70s, she introduced torn clothing, safety pins, and provocative slogans aimed at the British establishment. Later, she became an environmental activist; her runways often featured models carrying slogans about climate change and the release of political prisoners. Similarly, Schiaparelli fought against "boring" and traditional fashion. Collaborating with Salvador Dalí, she created garments that were more works of art than clothing, such as the shoe-shaped hat or the skeleton dress. This was a protest against the conformity and rigid social frameworks of the time, proving that a woman could be eccentric without fearing ridicule.
Rei Kawakubo also deserves mention. The Japanese designer turned Parisian fashion upside down in the '80s by introducing "anti-fashion"—black, shapeless, distressed garments. This was a response to the glitz of Western glamour; Kawakubo rejected "ideal" body proportions and proved that beauty lies in asymmetry and imperfection.
McQueen frequently used his shows to address raw subjects: violence, historical trauma, and the destruction of nature. His 1995 collection, Highland Rape, dealt with Scottish history and British imperialism. His shows were always emotional and often shocking manifestos.
Katharine Hamnett is famous for her "slogan t-shirts." In 1984, she met Margaret Thatcher wearing a shirt that read: "58% DON'T WANT PERSHING" (a protest against nuclear missiles). She turned fashion into a portable billboard that spoke about politics in a language everyone could understand. We can find countless similar examples among celebrities as well.
At the 2019 Oscars, Billy Porter appeared in a Christian Siriano "tuxedo gown." The top was a classic suit jacket, while the bottom was a grand velvet skirt. It was a protest against traditional masculinity and the rigid boundaries of what a man "should" wear on the red carpet, proving that fashion has no gender.
At the 2010 MTV VMAs, Lady Gaga appeared in a dress made of raw beef. While many saw it only as a stunt, it carried a deep meaning. It was a protest against the U.S. military’s "Don't Ask, Don't Tell" policy, which restricted the rights of LGBTQ+ individuals. As she put it, if we don't fight for our rights, we will soon have as many rights as the meat on our bones.
American singer Joy Villa often uses the Grammys to state a political position, wearing dresses with slogans like "Make America Great Again" or "Choose Life." This is an example of how fashion can be used as a direct political statement.
"Fashion is not fashion if it does not take to the streets," Coco Chanel used to say. Indeed, we can find many examples in real-life moments.
During the dictatorship in Argentina (1976–1983), the mothers of those who were kidnapped and "disappeared" by the regime gathered every Thursday in the Plaza de Mayo. They wore white headscarves, originally made from their children's diapers. This white scarf became a symbol of courage and relentless searching that the government could not ignore.
In 2018, the wave of protests that began in France was directly linked to an item of clothing: the high-visibility yellow vest, which every driver is legally required to have in their car. It was a brilliant choice—the vest is cheap, everyone has one, and most importantly, it symbolised: "We exist, we are visible, and you are forced to see us."
One way or another, clothing has long moved beyond the so-called "beautiful runway" and helps people express their opinions.
Clothing is humanity's most accessible and versatile manifesto. It has long left the confines of "mere aesthetics" and moved to where real history is written—in the streets, in public squares, and within social shifts. When a person is not allowed to speak out loud, their clothing becomes a "visual scream." Fashion is only alive when it is in the streets. This means that a true trend is not a magazine cover, but the spirit that people carry in their daily lives.
Clothing is our "second skin," telling the world not only who we are but also what we dislike and what we are fighting for.
Article by Giga Uchuvatovi
