You just got your braids done. The parts are crisp, your edges are polished, and you're looking and feeling like your best self. Not only are you excited to be flexing a new style, but you're also happy you won't have to endure a washday for a few weeks—or so you thought. According to dermatologists and hairstylists, wearing your hair in braids doesn't mean you don't have to wash it; quite the opposite, actually. If you skip washing your hair while it's in a protective style, it could do more harm than good.
"When done correctly, braids are an effective protective style that supports moisture retention and overall hair health," says Zoë Indigo, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Los Angeles. Braids are especially helpful in the winter months when the heat indoors is blasting, pulling moisture from the air, drying out your skin and hair.
So, braids are the perfect length- and moisture-retention cocoon right? In theory, yes. However, where many people go wrong is ignoring the buildup that can accumulate on your scalp when wearing this style. "The natural hair at the scalp needs to be washed while the braids are installed," says Ellen Marmur, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. "This ensures a healthier, clean scalp, reduces the chances of infection, and even washes away some of the chemicals in the synthetic hair."
Naana Boakye, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New Jersey, says you should be "cleansing the scalp at least once a week to remove product buildup and allow the scalp to breathe." Spot cleansing can count here and there, but only to a point. You'll need to give your hair a full wash after four weeks, max, though experts say two weeks is the ideal time to do the first wash.
Now that we've established that washing your hair while it's in braids is wise, read on for advice from the pros we asked about how to properly cleanse your hair and scalp—plus, a few product suggestions to help leave your hair hydrated, scalp moisturized, and braids intact.
Step 1: Cleanse
If it's been a few weeks since you washed your hair and you've been piling on the product, focus on clarifying formulas. These will give you the most effective cleanse, especially if you have product buildup from gels and oils.
Whitney Tolpinrud, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in San Diego, suggests using a shampoo with ketoconazole, selenium sulfide, or zinc pyrithione, which are great for deep-cleaning the scalp. The Mizani Scalp Care Anti-Dandruff Shampoo is a great option that contains zinc pyrithione, plus skin-soothing peppermint oil and cucumber oil. The Carol's Daughter Wash Day Delight Shampoo has a nozzle tip that makes it easy to apply directly to your scalp, getting in the nooks and crannies at the base of your braids.
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When washing your braids, Brendnetta Ashley, a hairstylist in San Fransisco, recommends using “a clean edge brush with a little bit of shampoo on it. Gently rub it on your scalp going between the parts to get a good cleanse.”
Wearing a wig cap while washing your braids is another way to help prevent frizz. “I love this hack because when you use your hands or nails [to wash] you risk disrupting the braids too much,” says Ashley. Put your wig cap on your head, leaving the length of the braids out. Lather your shampoo and begin to work it over your scalp with your fingers. The wig cap protects your scalp from excessive frizz that comes from friction, yet is thin enough for the shampoo to still get to the scalp.
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Also, Ashley strongly urges her clients to focus on their edges as this is where most of the buildup sits, usually from daily use of edge control. After you're done shampooing, it's important to rinse your scalp. A good way to know you're done with the cleansing step, Ashley adds, is if the water runs clear as you rinse.
A big concern people have with washing their braids is the fear of wet, heavy braids that take hours to dry. The best way to avoid this is by running water over only the scalp and roots. A handheld shower attachment makes this easy. Hang your head upside down in the shower or tub, holding up your braids with your hands, or wrapped in a high bun. Then, use the handheld attachment to run the water close to your scalp, maneuvering it so there isn't much water hitting the lengths of the braids. Using a bucket of water in this same position works well too.
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Step 2: Dry
Frizzy braids can happen as a result of too much friction during the wash or drying process. T. Cooper, a hairstylist in New York City, warns against rubbing the hair with your towel. “Simply place your braids in the towel and wring out the excess water,” she says. A microfiber towel, like the Best of Beauty-winning Volo Hero Towel, also helps minimize frizz because the tiny fibers and smooth surface are designed to absorb water quickly, enabling you to dry your hair without using too much friction.
When you're drying your braids, it's important that you do so quickly. Braids that stay damp or wet for too long can lead to mold and bacterial growth on the scalp. “Moldy box braids are definitely a thing,” says Cooper. "I found out the hard way."
Using a blow-dryer (after towel drying and applying a leave-in conditioner) is the best and fastest way to fully dry your braids. Air-drying isn't out of the question, just make sure to wring out excess water right after washing, and do leave your hair uncovered to ensure your scalp and roots dry completely.
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Step 3: Condition
When you're done with cleansing and towel drying, it's time to moisturize your braids. A traditional conditioner isn't necessary in this case. “Braids can help hair hold onto moisture," says Dr. Indigo. “By grouping strands together, braids reduce the amount of hair exposed to air, which slows water loss.” So, your actual strands don't need to be moisturized as much as your just-cleansed roots and scalp. A leave-in conditioner is sufficient to moisturize your scalp and roots without the added friction from massaging in and rinsing out a conditioner.
Ashley recommends the Dippity-do Girls with Curls De-Frizz Leave-In Detangling Conditioner. The Davines OI All In One Milk is also a great option—glycerin and sunflower seed oil in the formula offer lightweight yet long-lasting moisture to the hair. The slightly sweet citrus scent is also delightful.
If you have boho braids with human hair, Ashley says, this is a great time to treat those loose strands to a little TLC. “A curl foam or mousse can also help keep your boho braids fresh and hydrated after you wash,” she explains. After spraying your curly boho braids with leave-in conditioner, run the mousse through them with your fingers or a detangling brush.
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Originally published on Allure.
