When it comes to how to apply perfume correctly, we thought we knew the basics, a.k.a. the wrist dab and the spray-and-walk. So it came as a surprise when Marc Malcolm, the Internet’s self-proclaimed first cologne bender, recently showcased a new one: catching your cologne.
In the viral videos, Malcolm mists the scent, “grabs” it with his hand, and then rubs it on. Whether you think the technique is genius or silly, the scent aficionado has amassed more than 500,000 Instagram followers—and he got us wondering: What really is the best way to apply perfume?
According to Darryl Do, senior perfumer and manufacturer at Delbia Do Fragrances & Flavors, “There’s no single ‘right’ way to wear fragrance, but there are definitely ways to get more out of it.”
Many things can affect how long a fragrance lasts, from skin type to your individual skin chemistry to the weather. But as Do says, there are ways to squeeze the most juice from your, well, juice. Ahead, find out the best way to actually apply your fragrance, with tips from the perfumer as well as Emma Vernon, host of the Perfume Room podcast.
Dab, don’t rub.
That old habit of rubbing your wrists together could be degrading your scent. “Over the years I’ve heard from perfumers that if you rub your [wet, freshly sprayed] wrists together, it diminishes the top-note experience, assuming it’s an alcohol-based fragrance,” says Vernon. “The consensus seems to be that patting is okay, but rubbing is bad.”
Focus on—but don’t limit to—pulse points.
The pulse points—wrists, neck, inner elbows, behind the ears, behind the knees—are common spots to apply fragrance because they tend to be naturally warmer. But they don’t have to be the only ones. “With mists, I encourage people to spray it all over. With a rollerball or perfume oil, a more targeted application works well,” says Do, adding, “The warmth of the body can help diffuse the fragrance naturally.”
And don’t be afraid to reapply if you want a boost. “Fragrance naturally evaporates over time, and factors like temperature, humidity, skin moisture, concentration, and the ingredients themselves can all affect longevity,” says Do. A rollerball perfume oil like Lake & Skye’s popular white musk skin scent makes application quick and easy.
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But don’t apply everywhere.
Remember, there is such a thing as overperfuming. Also, some people—not to mention some areas of the body—are more sensitive than others.
“I would avoid spraying perfume directly onto the face, both to keep it away from the eyes and to avoid triggering an allergic reaction,” says Do, who reminds us that perfume is bitter-tasting, so you don’t want to get any in your mouth, either. “Also, be mindful when spraying fragrance directly onto delicate or light-colored fabrics, since certain fragrance oils can potentially stain.”
Layer fragrance strategically.
Do’s best advice for how to apply perfume correctly? “Start by applying fragrance to exposed areas of the body, such as the neck, arms, legs, and hair.”
“In regard to clothes, I recommend always spraying your top for longevity,” Do continues. “For your outermost layer, like a jacket or coat, you can spray the fragrance into the air and walk through the mist. This gives you a lighter, more even distribution across your body rather than concentrating the perfume in one spot.”
If using a hair and body mist like this vanilla-y floral from Sol de Janeiro, be sure to spray it from 10 to 12 inches away so the fine mist can disperse evenly.
By applying perfume to clothing, you’ll maintain your scent even if you change layers. “As you remove each piece of clothing throughout the day, the fragrance stays intact underneath so the scent holds up from morning to night,” says Do. But again, the perfumer says to be mindful of light textiles, which could stain.
If you want to mix different scents, Vernon says to be strategic about where you’re spritzing. “I never spray a wet perfume on top of another wet perfume,” she explains. “It degrades both formulas so that instead of having two amazing smells simultaneously, neither smells quite right. I recommend spraying different perfumes on different parts of your body or one scent on your clothes and another on your body.”
Try mixing two scents from the relaunched Gap fragrance collection, which was designed for layering. We like the light and nostalgic Dream, with notes of bergamot, jasmine, and cedarwood, paired with warm and spicy Om, with ginger, sandalwood, and cedar.
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When you spritz matters too.
If perfume fades quickly on you, try applying after a shower when your skin is warm and barely damp, as opposed to on dry skin. For extra credit, put on body lotion first; moisturized skin holds onto fragrance even better.
Also, remember that the concentration of the perfume matters: an extrait de parfum has the highest concentration of pure fragrance oils, while an eau de parfum is still highly concentrated but not quite as powerful. Eau de toilette has a lower concentration and therefore usually fades more quickly. In any case, both experts say that a midday refresh is totally acceptable. “Make a travel size and refresh it throughout the day as desired,” says Vernon.
Or if you prefer to transition your perfume from day to night, go for something lighter during the daytime that won’t compete with your evening scent. “Perfume is very personal, so I think of it less as there being one ideal time to apply it and more about choosing a scent and application that match where you’re going and how you want to feel,” says Do.
Originally published Glamour US.
