Even with your best efforts (and a lineup of pricey brightening products), dark spots notoriously take their sweet time to go away. More specifically, “it can take around a month,” Mamina Turegano, MD, board-certified dermatologist at Sanova Dermatology in New Orleans, tells SELF—sometimes, “up to three months.” But in our rush to fade stubborn hyperpigmentation ASAP, dermatologists say we often make mistakes that make those very marks even more noticeable.
To understand what makes dark spots so persistent, it helps to know what’s going on under the surface. On a basic level, those brown, red, or purplish marks show up when your body produces excess melanin (or pigment), which can happen in response to things like unprotected sun exposure, for instance, hormonal changes (such as during pregnancy), and underlying inflammation (from an angry breakout, a popped pimple you messed with—but shouldn’t have—or a bug bite).
While some serums and creams can definitely speed up the fading process, plenty of everyday skin-care habits—ones you might not even think twice about—can make these marks stick around even longer. Here are the biggest mistakes dermatologists see all the time when it comes to dark spots—plus, what to do instead.
1. You layer multiple “brightening” ingredients at once.
No single product will magically even your skin tone overnight, but there are lots of derm-approved ingredients that can brighten it over time. Think vitamin C, an antioxidant that slows melanin production. Or retinol and exfoliants, both of which slough off the pigmented skin cells to reveal a fresh, glowier layer underneath.
That said, more isn’t always better—and piling on multiple heavy hitters won’t speed things up. In fact, vitamin C, chemical exfoliants (like glycolic, lactic, or salicylic acid), and retinol shouldn’t be used together all at once, since this combination can irritate and inflame the skin (including your existing hyperpigmentation).
What to do instead: Rather than using all your strongest actives in the same day, at the same time, Dr. Turegano recommends picking one brightener (for at least two weeks) and seeing how your skin responds. You can also consider using vitamin C in the morning, say, and retinol at night, or alternating them on different days (versus piling them on in a single day). Not only is this approach gentler on the skin, but it also makes it easier to tell what’s actually making a difference.
2. You haven’t treated your underlying acne first.
In an effort to get rid of leftover marks, it’s tempting to prioritize brightening. But none of that will make a lasting difference if you’re not addressing the root cause of the discoloration—which, for many folks, is still-active acne.
“A mistake I see often is people are having breakouts, but they’re more focused on treating the hyperpigmentation,” Dr. Turegano says. Because when you’re still breaking out, your skin stays inflamed from that buildup of excess oil, dead skin cells, and bacteria—which is exactly what causes melanin overproduction (and dark spots) in the first place. So even as you try to fade these stubborn marks, new ones may just pop up right behind them.
What to do instead: If you can, it’s best to see a dermatologist who can tailor a treatment plan for your acne-prone skin, whether that involves a prescription topical or oral medications. But other OTC options Dr. Turegano recommends—ones that are great for breakouts and hyperpigmentation—include topical retinol, exfoliating acids (like glycolic and lactic acid), and niacinamide.
@dermatologysurgeon Do your pimples leave dark marks that never go away? Here’s how to prevent and fade post acne marks (also known as post inflammatory hyperpigmentation) from a dermatologist. @Natseleen I hope this helps! #postacnemarks #hyperpigmentationtreatment #fyp ♬ original sound - Dr. Neera, Skin Surgeon
3. You forget to apply (and reapply) sunscreen
As much emphasis as there is on treating hyperpigmentation, dermatologists say people often overlook the importance of prevention—and one of the biggest things that can make existing discoloration worse is sun exposure.
“It’s common knowledge that sunscreen is essential,” Brendan Camp, MD, board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology in New York City, tells SELF. “But it’s especially important for someone who struggles with dark spots,” since UV rays trigger excess melanin production, deepening your overall tone (for that bronzey tan…or lobster burn) along with intensifying any brown or red marks.
What to do instead: For the best protection, incorporate a “broad-spectrum” formula (at least SPF 30) into your daily routine—and reapply it every two hours if you’re sweating or spending time outdoors. (Bonus points if your sunscreen of choice contains zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, both of which physically block UV rays that darken any post-pimple spots.)
4. You’re unintentionally irritating your skin with too much heat.
Sunlight isn’t the only culprit to be aware of. According to Dr. Camp, too much heat (from steamy saunas, say, or long, hot showers) can prolong inflammation in your skin too.
In the short term, that leads to increased blood flow (which is responsible for the flushed look you get after an hour of hot yoga, for example). But when this happens frequently, Dr. Camp says the sustained inflammation can cause “the melanocytes [cells that give our skin its color] to overreact and produce more pigment,” making those little brown marks more noticeable.
What to do instead: You don’t have to give up scorching hot showers entirely. But all Dr. Camp asks is to be mindful about the extremely hot temps when possible. (In other words, a few minutes under the steamy water is fine—but maybe skip the nightly 30-minute sauna-level soak.)
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5. You exfoliate with the wrong actives—or overdo it.
Exfoliants, which slough off the top layer of skin, can definitely help even out skin tone, both Dr. Turegano and Dr. Camp agree. And there are a bunch of promising options, from chemical exfoliants like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAS), to physical scrubs (you know, the ones with tiny, gritty beads).
The problem, though, is that “a lot of people think if they can use something strong or harsh enough on their face, they can essentially scrub away the dark marks, which unfortunately will backfire,” Dr. Turegano says—particularly with physical scrubs that rely on abrasive ingredients (like pumice, rice powder, or salt granules). For sensitive skin types, this mechanical friction can create microtrauma or inflammation, which can signal your melanocytes to ramp up pigment production in that area.
And while chemical exfoliants (AHAs, BHAs) are generally gentler than scrubs, using these too frequently or in high concentrations can still damage your skin barrier, Dr. Turegano points out, leading to more irritation, redness, and an overall slower recovery process for your marks.
What to do instead: There isn’t a one-size-fits-all answer for how often to exfoliate—it really depends on your skin type, needs, and tolerance. But as SELF previously reported, it’s smart to err on the side of caution: Avoid physical scrubs if you can, though if your skin is on the oilier or more resilient side, using them no more than once a week may be okay. As for the chemical options, Dr. Turegano suggests starting slow—once or twice a week—then adjusting based on how your skin reacts (meaning, no stinging, flaking, or peeling).
6. You aren’t sure if you’re dealing with true dark spots…or post-inflammatory erythema.
Not all dark spots are the same. In fact, the brown, discolored marks you know and loathe are technically called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). But there’s also post-inflammatory erythema (PIE). These post-pimple spots look similar at first glance but respond better to different treatments, which is why knowing which one you’re dealing with could be a key step toward fading them faster.
How can you tell which one you’ve got? According to Dr. Turegano, the biggest distinction is that PIE appears pink, red, or purple, since it’s caused by damaged blood vessels near the skin’s surface—a result of injury or irritation (from picking at a pimple, for instance, or overusing harsh actives). Whereas longer-lasting PIH refers to those “true” dark spots caused by a deeper pigment change (from excess melanin production), showing up as brown in lighter skin tones or blue-gray in darker ones.
What to do instead: A dermatologist can confirm which type you’re dealing with, but you can often tell on your own based on the color of your marks. But for true dark spots (or PIH), your best bet is to focus on the fading actives we talked about (though a few other OTC derm-favorites include licorice root extract, kojic acid, or tranexamic acid). All of these inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production, to even out your complexion.
But for more surface-level red or pink marks (PIE)—or if you have a mix of both—it may be worth adding in gentle, calming products that soothe the skin barrier while also tackling inflammation. Think treatments like niacinamide, azelaic acid, or centella asiatica (cica).
For the record, you don’t need to panic if you’re not 100% sure which type you’ve got—treating PIH with PIE-friendly ingredients (or vice versa) won’t make things worse, necessarily. But as Dr. Turegano points out, using the “right” actives for your specific marks can at least be a small but meaningful tweak that helps you see better, brighter results over time.
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Originally published on SELF.
