The forecast for 2022 awards season fashion looks unclear, but Hollywood’s top stylists aren’t letting small details, like postponed and privatised ceremonies, get in the way of dreaming up fantastical red-carpet looks. To the prospect of more masked photos, in line with Covid-19 regulations, celebrity dressers say long live Hollywood style! Faced with the possibility of Zoom acceptance speeches, they’re throwing colour – and more colour! – into the mix.
Here, the creative individuals behind Tinseltown’s most-publicised wardrobes predict the biggest red-carpet trends of 2022.
“Drama in the form of bold silhouettes – from sultry column dresses to big ballgowns – exquisite jewellery and haute couture,” is what Tara Swennen expects to see as the awards shows unfold. The woman behind Kristen Stewart’s elegantly punk uniform notes the emphasis will be on “jaw-dropping trains and breathtaking beadwork”, as stars nod to the “show-stopping Hollywood glamour” the world never tires of seeing and which offers a welcome shot in the arm during the bleak mid winter.
The brand that’s geared up to oblige those seeking modern Marilyn Monroe moments? Gucci, of course. Alessandro Michele’s Love Parade show, staged on Hollywood’s legendary Walk of Fame, was chock full of frothy, pearlescent confections begging for a great paparazzi pic. Rising styling double act Zadrian Smith and Sarah Edmiston say the presentation was electric, and reflected everyone’s desire to “really embrace a sense of escapism through fashion”.
For some, including Andrew Gelwicks – who looks after the inimitable Catherine O’Hara and Susan Sarandon – the odes to Audrey Hepburn et al belong back in 2021. “As we look to 2022, I think we will see a bit more contemporary edge [to red-carpet wear]”, he says, citing Valentino as a one-stop shop for unparalleled contemporary glamour. “Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collections translate extremely well on the red carpet, giving stars that ultimate can’t-look-away moment,” he explains.
Gelwicks’s trick to making his clients stand out among a galaxy of stars this season? “Colour, colour, colour!” he enthuses. “Now, seemingly more than ever, people are in need of bold, expressive joy. I also think we will see more unusual silhouettes, with designers playing around with different proportions.”
For Danyul Brown, whose client list ranges from Yungblud to Paris Jackson, even a bold accessory is enough to qualify for mood-boosting territory. “Choosing to accessorise a red-carpet look with a bright bag will allow room for excitement,” says Brown, adding that Celine, Jacquemus and Loewe are his go-to brands for arm candy inspiration – after Bottega, of course.
Catsuits will usurp capes
“Caped crusades were a big hit in 2021, with celebrities such as Lady Gaga in Gucci and Jennifer Lawrence in Dior showcasing the trend, however I think we will see less of them this year,” says Brown, who is putting his money on catsuits making a comeback, thanks to “slick, comfortable and unexpected” styles from Stella McCartney and Saint Laurent.
Another trend with limited staying power, according to those in the know? Colour-pop plumage. “Going forward, we should wave goodbye to feathered looks of last year, like the fuchsia feathered skirts at Venice Film Festival and purple feathered dresses at the Golden Globes,” opine Smith and Edmiston, who are planning a “refined and elevated” approach to dressing their leading ladies, such as Ariana DeBose.
Points for originality
Karla Welch, surely the most requested stylist on the planet thanks to her work with the Biebers and Tracee Ellis Ross, makes a valid point: “Ultimately, we are in an age where many talents will do brand deals, so that alone can dictate the [red-carpet trends of a season]. In my dream, the pay for play doesn’t factor in any decisions.” Welch cites Ruth Negga’s promo wardrobe for Loving as a favourite of hers that was underlined by unbridled creativity, rather than any cheques that had been signed.
Smith and Edmiston predict that, based on the films being touted for the big prizes, “We could see houses including Chanel, highly likely to be worn by Kristen Stewart; Rodarte, a Kirsten Dunst favourite; and Gucci, to be worn by Lady Gaga”, while Giorgio Armani, who “does a beautiful job at classic glamour”, is a given.
One brand that is frequently suggested by stylists’ clients, and takes a more renegade approach to advertising over big-budget advertising campaigns, is Vivienne Westwood. “Vivienne and Andreas [Kronthaler] have continued to showcase diversity and excitement in their collections, and with attention on gender-fluid fashion at the moment they are a great [duo] to highlight,” says Brown.
As the focus continues to shift from great dresses to what the actor wearing them stands for, expect more fashion originals to receive some much deserved air time during awards season 2022. Bring it on.
This was originally published on Vogue US.