Hair thinning can be subtle, slow, and seriously stressful. But how do you know if what you’re experiencing is normal or a red flag?
For Hair Loss Awareness Month, we sat down with a board-certified hair restoration physician, Dr. Alan Bauman, a leading expert with over 25 years of experience and 33,000+ patients treated. Here, he breaks down the early signs of hair loss, how to tell it apart from everyday shedding, and why acting early can make all the difference.
Glamour: What are the early, often-missed signs that your hair is thinning or falling out more than it should?
Dr. Alan Bauman: Some of the earliest signs are incredibly subtle, which is why they’re often overlooked. You might see a widening part, reduced ponytail volume, or increased scalp visibility in bright light. Other clues include more hair left behind in your brush, shower drain, or pillow. Scalp tenderness, itchiness, or sudden breakage can also be signs that something’s off. Catching these early gives you the best shot at protecting your hair.
Glamour: Is it true you can lose up to 50% of your hair before it’s even noticeable?
Dr. Bauman: Yes — and that’s one of the most concerning things about hair loss. It often progresses so gradually that you don’t visibly notice a problem until around 50% of your hair density is gone in a specific area. That’s why I always recommend early evaluations, even if the change feels minor.
Glamour: What’s the difference between hair shedding and actual hair loss?
Dr. Bauman: Shedding, also called telogen effluvium, is usually temporary and triggered by things like stress, illness, or hormonal changes. It’s more diffuse and often resolves on its own. True hair loss, like androgenetic alopecia, is progressive and leads to follicle shrinkage over time. It’s also possible to have both at the same time, which is why an expert evaluation is so important if the shedding lasts more than a few months or is accompanied by visible thinning.
Glamour: How can stress, hormones, or diet silently contribute to long-term hair loss?
Dr. Bauman: Hair follicles are incredibly sensitive to internal changes. Chronic stress and elevated cortisol levels can push follicles into a resting phase, increasing shedding. Hormonal shifts — including thyroid issues, PCOS, or perimenopause — can shorten the growth cycle. And nutrient deficiencies like low iron, vitamin D, or protein can impair follicle health. These factors often work in combination and go unnoticed until the effects are visible.
Glamour: How much hair loss is normal when washing or brushing?
Dr. Bauman: On average, losing 50 to 100 hairs per day is normal due to the hair’s natural growth cycle. You might see slightly more on wash days because you're dislodging hairs that have already shed. But if you're noticing clumps of hair or a big increase in daily shedding, that’s a signal worth paying attention to.
Glamour: Are there specific areas where women typically notice thinning first?
Dr. Bauman: Yes, women usually notice thinning at the part line, crown, or just behind the hairline. Unlike men, who tend to recede at the temples, women experience more diffuse thinning. One of the most common first signs is a widening part, which should never be ignored.
Glamour: How do protective hairstyles like braids, wigs, or weaves affect hair loss?
Dr. Bauman: Tight styles like braids, weaves, and ponytails can cause traction alopecia — a form of hair loss from repeated tension on the scalp. Over time, this can lead to permanent thinning, especially around the hairline. Wigs and weaves can help conceal loss but may also delay diagnosis. If you wear these styles frequently, make sure you're giving your scalp breaks and getting regular evaluations.
Glamour: Why do so many women delay seeking help for hair loss?
Dr. Bauman: There’s still stigma and misinformation around female hair loss. Many women chalk it up to stress and hope it’ll pass, or they think there’s nothing that can be done. But the truth is, there are highly effective treatments today — and the earlier we start, the better the results. It’s incredibly empowering when women take control of their hair health.
Glamour: Are there diagnostic tools to confirm whether you're experiencing real hair loss?
Dr. Bauman: Definitely. At Bauman Medical, we use several cutting-edge diagnostic tools to evaluate the scalp and follicles:
- HairCam®: High-resolution imaging that shows patterns of hair loss and scalp condition.
- HairMetrix™: AI-powered, non-invasive follicle analysis that measures hair density and growth phases; no hair trimming required.
- HairCheck®: Measures hair mass and breakage in specific areas to catch thinning early or track regrowth.
- TrichoTest™: A genetic test to determine how your body will respond to different treatments, so we can personalize your plan.
We also review medical and family history, and when needed, recommend lab tests for things like hormone levels, iron, vitamin D, and inflammation markers. Tracking these metrics over time helps us fine-tune your treatment and ensure you're getting the best possible results.
Dr Bauman notes that “Hair loss isn’t just a cosmetic issue, it can deeply impact confidence and wellbeing. And he affirms that with today’s technology and knowledge, there are more answers (and solutions) than ever before. The earlier you act, the better your hair can bounce back.”
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