No Slickback November is currently trending on TikTok, which means thousands of users are ditching high-tension hairstyles for the month. It’s not that slick-back hair is out of style—in fact, it’s quite the opposite. Tight updos are so trendy and convenient, they’ve become go-tos between washdays for lots of people. But if you’re slicking back on the regular, you might also notice signs that your hair needs a break.
Influencer Joy Burnett (@thatgirwiththecurlyhair on TikTok) coined No Slickback November last year when she cited her frequent high-tension hairstyles as the reason for breakage around her hairline and damage to her curls. Burnett documented a full month without tightly gelled updos, and how she styled her hair everyday instead. The no-slick promise resulted in earlier mornings, more frequent curl routines, and less convenience, but people were intrigued by the potential payout. This year thousands of users joined Burnett in documenting their own slick-back-free Novembers.
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There’s plenty to gain from participating in the trend. Thinking outside the box from your regular hairstyles might help you learn new styling skills or embrace your natural texture, and your hair will always thank you for being gentle with it. But how much damage are slick-back hairstyles actually doing—and is a monthlong break enough to make a real difference in your hair health?
Below, we asked experts to explain how much actual damage that slick-back hairstyles can cause over time, and how to execute them safely.
What kind of hair damage can slick-back styles cause?
While an occasional high-tension style isn't going to ruin your hair, these are the most common complaints from people who slick their strands back regularly.
Thinning
“The biggest issue is hair thinning from pulling the hair too tightly, especially around the hairline and baby hairs,” Julissa Prado, founder and CEO of Rizos Curls, tells Glamour. Aggressive pulling and heavy products on delicate new growth may result in breakage or shedding, which is especially noticeable around the hairline.
Breakage
While baby hairs are a commonly cited victim of the frequent slick-back, overusing the style can result in breakage at your midlengths and ends as well, especially if you’re brushing over knots and bumps to smooth them down without properly detangling. “I’ve also seen ponytail breakage, where the hair in the area that the ponytail is secured is severely broken off,” says SherriAnn Cole, celebrity hairstylist and brand ambassador of Göt2b Curled. “Think hair broken halfway down the strand and sometimes breakage going all the way down to the root.”
Dryness
“Many strong-hold gels and sprays contain drying alcohols or ingredients that clog follicles, creating buildup and dehydrating the hair,” Prado says, noting that alcohol-heavy formulas are especially harsh on textured hair.
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Scalp irritation
“Regular high tension puts constant stress on the follicles and the scalp,” Cole says. In addition to the tension causing pain and tension headaches, product buildup and aggressive brushing can lead to itching, flaking, and inflammation, according to Prado.
Loss of definition
“For curly hair, constantly stretching curls can weaken their pattern over time,” Prado says.
Which hair types are most susceptible to damage from high-tension styles?
Slick-back hairstyles are great in a pinch for every hair type: They can make fine, oily hair look sleek and polished on particularly greasy days, or serve as an easy morning solve for unruly curls. But when you’re slotting weekly slicks in to your routine, you should take your unique hair composition into consideration.
“It’s less about hair type and more about density, tightness, and product use,” Prado says. “Finer or thinner hair is more susceptible to tension and breakage than thicker hair, especially around the roots and baby hairs.” Cole notes that naturally drier hair types (such as curls and coils) are usually more delicate and will sustain more damage from “constant stretching and brushing, as well as product buildup.” In short: While anyone can experience hair damage from frequent tension, your density and porosity may determine how much.
What are some common slick-back mistakes that lead to damage?
“Pulling the hair back way too tight is the biggest mistake, especially with the ‘instant facelift’ trend,” Prado says. She also notes that while pulling tight may make your hair easier to smooth and mold, you should never put your hair in a high-tension style when it’s wet or damp: “Wet hair is more fragile, and tying it up damp can create odor, bacteria, and irritation.”
Other common mistakes include brushing or combing the hair too aggressively, or slicking down hair that isn’t fully detangled, according to Cole. Speaking of tools, she also says to avoid using bands that snag or tangle in the hair when securing your styles. Those invisible plastic bands may make your intricate hairstyles look seamless, but if they’re ripping out hairs upon removal, they’re not worth it.
Does it help to take breaks from slick-back hairstyles?
If you’ve been devoted to No Slickback November so far, we have good news for you: “A month of lower tension will reduce shedding and breakage, increase overall root health, and give the hairline time to recover,” Cole says.
At the most basic level, you’re giving your whole head some much-needed relief. “There’s truly no better feeling than taking out a tight style. I even get headaches from ponytails, so I always listen to my body,” Prado says. “If you notice thinning or irritation, that’s your sign to ease up, and low-tension styles give your hair and scalp a chance to relax.”
That said, a monthlong hiatus from high-tension hairstyles isn’t a free pass to wear one every day after. Mixed in with an occasional cold-turkey break, there are measures you should take to protect your hair every time you slick it back.
How to wear regular high-tension hairstyles safely
Limit frequency.
By now you know that a daily slick-back won’t do your hair health any favors. Cole recommends a maximum of two to three high-tension styles a week, with time in between for your hair to recover. If you have fine or dry hair, opt for less. “I do suggest balancing slick-backs with low-tension styles,” Prado says. “Personally, I might do a slick-back once a week and keep the rest of my styles looser.”
Use the right tools.
Proper tools and techniques can make all the difference in preventing damage. Both Prado and Cole suggest using a soft-bristled brush to smooth and shape your hair, and snag-free elastics (ideally satin or spiral ties, and never plastic, rubber, or bands with metal bits).
Prioritize gentler, alcohol-free finishing products as well: “High hold doesn’t have to mean harsh ingredients, which I think is a common misconception,” Prado says. Cole recommends products that give hold without stiffness—“like the Göt2b Glued On-the-Go Wax Stick, which uses coconut oil and shea butter to give a smooth finish without the crunch.”
Prep your hair properly.
While you should never slick wet or damp hair into a high-tension style, you should make sure your hair is properly moisturized. “Apply oil or a nutrient-rich leave-in, like the Rizos Curls Heat Protectant Multivitamin Leave-In, to the midlengths and ends, especially if you’re growing your hair,” Prado suggests.
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Soothe your scalp.
If you’re wearing high-tension styles regularly, your scalp needs some extra TLC. Invest in a great clarifying rinse or scrub to prevent product buildup, restore balance, and clear your follicles—then follow with a scalp serum to sooth irritation. Prado also notes that any product used close to the hairline should be noncomedogenic, meaning that it won’t clog your pores.
Mix up your styles.
If you always re-create the same slick-back style, you may notice thinning or breakage in the same areas of your hairline or where you secure your hair. Cole advises mixing up the placement of your part, ponytail, or bun to avoid targeted damage.
Take recovery seriously.
Consider your washdays (and non-slick-back days) sacred: This is when you’re fortifying your hair to withstand all that tension. Opt for strengthening shampoos and nourishing conditioners specific to your hair type, and work in a weekly treatment mask.
While you may have seen the seemingly genius TikTok hack of using a hair mask to slick your hair back rather than a gel or mousse, experts advise against it for a high-tension style: “Hair masks can oversoften the hair, which can create breakage and cause buildup,” Cole says. “It’s better to use a hair mask as prep, by using the mask during washday, then slick on hydrated hair.” If you’re throwing in a hair mask on the go, Prado advises opting for low-tension style, like holding it with a loose clip.
Original article appeared on GLAMOUR US
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