If eyes are said to be the windows to the soul, then teeth are the canvas for self-expression. From crystal embellishments to custom designs, our smiles have become the new accessories. What was once a niche trend rooted in street culture has evolved into a symbol of individuality, creativity and confidence. Grillz have found their way from hip-hop videos and Y2K red carpets to TikTok feeds and fashion studios around the world. But where did it all begin?
Where it all began
For those new to the dental accessory, grillz are removable gold, silver or diamond caps that fit over the teeth. They first gained popularity in the 1980s hip-hop scene of New York City — thanks to jewellers like Eddie Plein, who designed custom mouthpieces for artists such as Slick Rick and Big Daddy Kane. These accessories became the ultimate flex of wealth, power and self-made success —all captured in a grin. By the early 2000s, artists like Nelly brought grillz into the mainstream with his hit anthem “Grillz”(2005), transforming a symbol of street pride into a global marker of style and confidence.
@lovecocojo Yesterday, we explored the ancient history of grillz, but do you know the innovator behind one of the most popular accessories of the last century? Welcome to Black Fashion History Day 3: Eddie Plein #lovecocojo #BlackTikTok #fashionhistory #blackhistorymonth #fashiontok #grillz #eddieplein ♬ Future solo slowed reverb - Marlon
While grillz became synonymous with hip-hop culture, their roots run much deeper. The love of dental adornment dates back to ancient civilisations like the Mayans and Etruscans, who were among the first to modify teeth with gold and gemstones. The Mayans inlaid stones such as jade and turquoise into their teeth — a practice believed to hold cultural and spiritual meaning and, at times, to signify social status. These early forms of dental art remind us that the desire to decorate our smiles has always been about more than aesthetics. It’s a reflection of identity, belief and self-expression.
@lovecocojo Are you familiar with the ancient history of grillz, or how their current iteration were texhnically founded because of fried cassava? Welcome Back to Black Fashion History Day 2: The History of Grillz #lovecocojo #BlackTikTok #blackfashionhistory #blackhistorymonth #hiphop #grillz #toothgems #eddieplein ♬ Future solo slowed reverb - Marlon
Celebrity influence
Once seen as rebellious, grillz have now crossed into the realm of high fashion. Nowhere was this more evident than at the 2025 Met Gala. Here, they were perfectly paired with dazzling couture gowns and designer suits, blurring the line between street style and luxury. Long considered a hyper-masculine statement, grillz have transcended gender boundaries. Today, women, men and non-binary personalities alike are embracing them as a form of self-expression. After all, you can’t inject bling into your beauty look and then forget about those pearly whites! From delicate single-tooth gold caps to intricate diamond-studded designs, grillz allow wearers to play with power, identity and femininity all at once.
A perfect example of this evolution is seen on Beyoncé, who, during her Cowboy Carter era, redefined Southern glam with a range of stunning grillz. Our favourite look has to be the custom-made turquoise set by Gabby Elan Jewellery; it perfectly captured Queen B’s Western-meets-high-fashion aesthetic. Her collection included silver caps, a carved-out horse motif and other gemstone-studded designs like the one featured in her Levi’s campaign. It was Beyoncé at her most experimental — merging tradition, craftsmanship and couture into a grin.
Then, there’s Japanese model SukiBaby, who has popularised and made all-black grillz her signature. Her look draws inspiration from “ohaguro” — the Japanese and Southeast Asian practice of teeth blackening that symbolises beauty, maturity and strength. Similarly, singer-songwriter Sailorr has embraced ohaguro-inspired grillz, turning what was once a cultural ritual into a modern beauty statement.
Closer to home, South African stars like Uncle Waffles are adding their own twist to the look. Rapper Dee Koala sported one of the coolest set of grillz on her iiNtsikelelo album cover, pairing her silver grin with streetwear-inspired styling that oozed confidence and creativity. Moozlie is another local trendsetter who’s made grillz part of her signature look — often opting for sleek gold or diamond sets that elevate her already bold aesthetic. Lastly, rising fashionista Landa Willie continues to prove that grillz aren’t just accessories; they’re statements of individuality, confidence and flair.
Crafting the smile
Behind every shiny grin lies hours of craftsmanship. A set of grillz isn’t something you buy off the shelf — it’s custom-made art. The process begins with a dental mould to ensure a perfect fit, followed by meticulous metal casting, polishing and, often, the careful hand-setting of gemstones. For many jewellers, crafting grillz is a creative expression that bridges jewellery design and dental precision beyond just the trade.
Tips for owning a set of grillz
As dazzling as they are, grillz come with their own golden rules:
- Get a custom fit: Always have your grillz made by a professional jeweller or dental specialist. A custom mould ensures comfort and prevents damage to your teeth or gums.
- Keep them clean: Rinse and gently brush your grillz after every wear to prevent buildup and tarnish. Treat them like fine jewellery, not costume bling.
- Don’t eat or sleep with them on: Food particles and friction can cause wear or affect your natural teeth.
- Store them safely: Keep your grillz in a lined or padded case to protect them when not in use.
@tnpjewellers How to maintain your grillz! #grillz #jeweller #customgrillz ♬ whatever she wants (instrumental) - no/vox & karaokey
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