Monica Ravi-Conway on making makeup truly inclusive through beauty education

Monica Ravi-Conway — the internet’s no-BS Queen on beauty — has built a global following by doing what the beauty industry hasn’t always done well: making makeup make sense. Best known as the creator behind the viral Lipstick Color Theory movement, she’s reshaped how consumers understand undertones, exposing why traditional “inclusive” shade ranges often fall short — especially for brown-skinned women.

Known for her clear, no-nonsense approach to beauty, she’s turning confusion into clarity, one viral video at a time. We caught up with her to talk about colour theory, inclusivity and the realities of finding your perfect match.

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What inspired you to start breaking down undertones and shade matching online?

I actually come from a background in engineering and product management, so problem-solving has always been part of how I think. When I started creating content, I was still working a corporate job and didn’t have much time—so I turned to my comment section for inspiration.

Most of the questions were coming from women of colour who didn’t just want tutorials—they wanted to understand why things worked or didn’t work. That’s when I realised there was a gap. People didn’t understand undertones or colour theory, and that’s where so many makeup issues come from.

Once I leaned into that and started educating myself more deeply, everything clicked. My content shifted from just showing looks to actually explaining them—and that’s what really resonated.

Olive undertones are still widely misunderstood. How would you explain them?

Olive undertones have historically been treated as niche, often tied to specific ethnicities, but that’s not accurate. Olive exists across all skin tones and backgrounds.

Scientifically, it comes down to the balance of pigments in the skin. When yellow undertones mix with deeper pigments, it creates a slightly muted tone that can appear green or grey—even though there’s no actual green in the skin.

That’s why people with olive undertones often struggle with foundation looking too orange, too red or even ashy. If your skin leans yellow but also looks slightly muted or grey-toned, there’s a strong chance you fall into the olive category.

Have you seen real progress in undertone inclusivity within the beauty industry?

There has definitely been progress, largely driven by social media. Brands are paying more attention because consumers are more vocal about what they need. That said, it’s not consistent across the board. Some brands genuinely care and are making an effort, while others still treat deeper skin tones and undertones as an afterthought.

What’s been really interesting is seeing how the gaps exist at both ends of the spectrum. When I started talking more about olive skin, I realised that even very fair consumers struggle—because their shades are often too pink or too orange. Olive is actually quite common, yet still underrepresented.

What did collaborating with a Korean beauty brand on shade development mean to you?

It honestly felt like finally being seen.

What stood out to me about working with a Korean brand like Espoir is how intentional they are about identifying gaps in the market. There’s less of a “dupe culture” mindset and more focus on innovation.

Seeing my community’s reaction was the most rewarding part. So many people who had never found their shade before were finally able to. That was an emotional moment for me, because it validated the work I’ve been doing to advocate for better representation.

The cushion foundation includes four olive shades, which is still rare. How did that process unfold?

Initially, the plan was to create just one shade for me — but I pushed back on that. One shade isn’t enough to serve a community.

We ended up developing four olive shades. The process started with me testing their existing range to figure out where these new shades would fit. From there, I had to educate the team on what olive undertones actually are, which was one of the more challenging parts.

I travelled to Korea and worked directly with their product development team and cosmetic chemists. It involved a lot of sampling, adjusting and refining until we created a shade range that felt accurate and inclusive.

What’s your top tip for brown-skinned consumers struggling with shade matching?

The biggest thing is understanding your skin beyond just undertones.

Brown skin often comes with hyperpigmentation and uneven tone, which means a perfect one-shade match isn’t always realistic. Instead of trying to match one area of your face, you have to consider all the different tones.

There are two main approaches:

Find a shade that balances the different tones across your face
Or use two foundations to match different areas

For example, the centre of your face might be lighter while the perimeter is darker. In those cases, using two shades can give you a more seamless finish—especially for special events. I actually used two foundations for my own wedding makeup.

How can you avoid makeup looking grey or ashy on deeper skin tones?

In many cases, it comes down to shade mismatch or simply not having access to the right shade.

If the ashiness is happening in specific areas, like around the mouth, colour correcting can help. Otherwise, you can mix in a bit of bronzer to adjust the tone.

And sometimes, the reality is that the product just wasn’t made with your undertone in mind—and that’s okay. It’s not a reflection of your skin, but of the limitations in the product range.

What advice would you give to someone still figuring out their undertones?

Start with understanding your skin tone depth and having a general idea of your undertone—it doesn’t have to be perfect.

From there:

Follow creators with similar skin tones and concerns
Pay attention to the natural tones in your skin—like your lips or the way your skin flushes
Use those cues to guide your makeup choices

But at the same time, don’t let colour theory limit you. Makeup should still feel creative and expressive—it’s not about following rules, it’s about finding what works for you.

Your three must-have products?

A colour corrector is essential—especially for deeper skin tones. A well-matched foundation is another non-negotiable, and right now I love the Armani foundation, especially after their olive shade extension.

And for my combination skin, the Danessa Myricks Blurring Balm Powder is a staple. It’s one of those products that actually gets better the longer you wear it—it smooths, blurs and controls oil throughout the day.