While flawless skin is more myth than reality (if only our teenage selves knew that), it can still be frustrating dealing with uneven skin texture. Those dry, rough patches, the bumpy areas, the acne scarring – they're beautiful, as they're a part of you, but we totally get it if you'd prefer to not have them.
I'll readily admit I try my best to love the skin I'm in, but I'll still check how my makeup looks in different lighting before leaving the house. But guess what: uneven skin texture is as common as leaves on a tree.
“Uneven skin texture is extremely common, and occurs when the skin feels rough, dry or bumpy to the touch," says cosmetic doctor, Dr Sebastian Bejma. “Medically, it's characterised by a difference between the depth of the sulcus cutis, or the grooves and depressions in the skin, and the raised areas, known as the crista cutis."
The good news? Uneven skin texture isn’t permanent. Ahead, we break down the best ways to treat uneven texture and restore smoother, softer skin.
What causes uneven skin texture?
PSA: Uneven skin texture can be caused by a whole variety of different things.
"One common cause is a buildup of excess dead skin cells, but uneven skin texture can also be caused by enlarged pores, acne or acne scarring,” says Dr Bejma.
“Milia can also be the cause of uneven skin texture, which are tiny white bumps that sometimes occur near the surface of your skin. They can occur anywhere on the body but are most common on the face, where they often form in clusters," he continues.
Dr Bejma continues that ageing also has a significant part to play in uneven skin texture, because the body produces less collagen and elastin with age, appearing less firm and even as a result. "This can also be exacerbated by sun damage, whereby the UV radiation negatively impacts the collagen levels in the skin,” he adds.
How can uneven skin texture be treated?
Fortunately there are a number of extremely effective ways to treat uneven skin texture. Here, with the help of our experts, we delve into each of them.
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Tip 1: Look for a cleanser with AHAs or BHAs
Surgical doctor Dr Miriam Adebibe says that the best cleansers for uneven skin texture are those containing AHAs or BHAs, and aesthetics doctor Dr Ed Robinson agrees.
“Look for gentle chemical exfoliating cleansers with low concentrations of AHAs or BHAs for mild resurfacing,” says Dr Ed. “Cream or gel-based formulas also cleanse effectively while maintaining hydration, but avoid harsh foaming cleansers with high SLS content, which can cause micro-irritation.”
If your skin is too sensitive for these acids, Dr Miriam advises to seek out bromelain enzymes (which are found in pineapple) as a more gentle exfoliation. “Or you could use hydrating cleansers, containing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, glycerin or squalane to support the skin’s barrier and moisture retention,” she says.
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Tip 2: Use a chemical exfoliant
I'm a firm believer in the best face exfoliators for keeping my skin smooth and soft, especially when patches of bumpy hormonal texture come around for their monthly meet and greet.
“Chemical exfoliants break the cellular bond in between the cells of the epidermis, allowing dead skin cells to be removed more easily,” says aesthetic doctor Dr Ahmed. “A lot of texture comes from dull, dead skin on the surface, so chemical exfoliants sweep that away and allow new skin to come through, keeping it fresh and smooth.”
And there's another benefit. “After using a chemical exfoliant to remove dead skin cells, your subsequent products in your skincare routine will be more effective,” adds Dr Miriam.
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Tip 3: Book a chemical peel
“Chemical peels can be a great way to address uneven skin tone, dryness and acne," says Dr Bejma.
"During this process your skin expert will apply a chemical solution to your skin which will peel away dead or damaged skin cells. There are a number of different strengths of peels, and usually they contain AHA and BHA acids, such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, and salicylic acid. It’s important that you leave it to the professionals to apply chemical peels to ensure that they’ve been specially formulated for your specific skin concerns.”
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Tip 4: Befriend retinoids
Retinoids (a broad term that encompasses vitamin A derivatives in skincare, including retinol) are your bestie, people. If you're new to retinoids or have sensitive skin, make sure to start with a low concentration that's cushioned by skin-comforting ingredients to reduce irritation (hello, BYOMA Sensitive Retinol Oil) and slowly work your way up.
“Retinoids, specifically active vitamin A, are fantastic for improving texture and remodelling scars. The best retinol serums exfoliate away dead skin, build collagen, improve firmness, and speed up cell turnover,” says Dr Miriam.
“As we get older, it takes longer for fresh skin to reach the surface on our faces (28 days in our twenties, 35 days in our thirties, 45 days in our forties, 60 days in our fifties) causing our skin to appear more dull and uneven. A retinoid is a great way to gain fresh skin more quickly,” she adds. “I'd recommend Tretinoin cream, which you can get with a prescription.”
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Tip 5: Apply hydrating serums and moisturisers
You wouldn't necessarily think that hydration played a large part in uneven skin texture, but think again. “When the skin is more hydrated it's naturally smoother,” says Dr Ahmed.
He also drops a delightful food analogy. “Think of the skin like a piece of bacon! If you're dehydrating it, you see the texture on the surface a lot more and the skin gets more dry and shrivelled. So when you're hydrating it, it looks smoother and less textured,” he explains.
However, Dr Ed advises that we don’t need to moisturise just for the sake of it; always save moisturising for when your skin is dry. "Use hydrating serums with hyaluronic acid serum to plump and smooth the skin, like the SkinCeuticals H.A. Intensifier, and follow with a ceramide-rich moisturiser to restore the skin barrier, like the CeraVe Moisturising Cream,” he says.
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Tip 6: Never skip your SPF
Dr Ed reveals that sun damage is the single biggest cause of collagen breakdown, pigmentation, and over time, roughened texture.
"While SPF won’t improve your texture directly, it can dramatically slow the rate of ageing and avoids the thickening of the skin’s surface that’s caused by sun damage. They are the single most cost effective product you can use long term, so don’t skip this step!” he says.
Dr Ahmed explains that SPF also helps to prevent dehydration, as well as playing a part in our skin cells. “SPF also maintains the cellular cycle, so they're able to replicate and multiply efficiently, meaning you keep getting better and fresher skin.” Shop the best face sunscreens here.
Tip 7: Don't be scared of (micro) needles
“Microneedling is another effective way to treat uneven skin tone and it is commonly used to treat scarring, stretch marks, as well as wrinkles," says Dr Bejma. "It works by creating invisible micro-perforations in the epidermis, which induces a wound healing response that stimulates new collagen and elastin production. This new collagen and elastin improve the skin quality and texture, addressing issues such as uneven skin.”
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Tip 8: Invest in laser resurfacing
“A CO2 laser is a fantastic way to stimulate collagen production and achieve firmer, more youthful skin. It can also help to reduce the appearance of sun damage, scars, age spots, and hyperpigmentation," says Dr Bejma.
“We use SmartXide Punto, which is the only CO2 laser that uses SmartPulse and SmartStack technology, making it capable of treating even the most complex concerns,” he continues.
"These include full face rejuvenation, scarring, deep wrinkles and pigmentation, even on very delicate skin and areas such as the neck and hands. It can treat all skin types and all areas of the body, and is perfect for skin tightening, fine lines and wrinkles, uneven skin texture, large pores, pigmentation, sun damage, various skin lesions, scars (including acne scars), stretch marks and rejuvenation of the face, neck, décolletage, hands and body.”
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Tip 9: Refer to radiofrequency
“Minimally invasive cosmetic procedures like Morpheus8 combines radiofrequency with microneedling to improve the skin’s complexion and texture for a more radiant and youthful appearance. It’s ideal for treating lines, wrinkles, sagging skin, stretch marks and scarring," says Dr Bejma.
"It can be used on any areas that can benefit from sub-dermal renewal, but the most commonly treated areas include the lower face and neck. Results can be seen as quickly as one treatment although a series of at least 2-3 treatments, conducted one to two months apart is recommended for maximum results.”
Originally published on Glamour UK.
