One of the best compliments a person can receive is being told they look “’90s fine.” It’s that effortless, low-key sultry energy embodied by icons like Halle Berry, Naomi Campbell, and Nia Long at the height of the decade — polished but never overdone, confident without trying too hard.
At first glance, you might assume the praise is about an outfit. But often, it has little to do with clothes at all. Sometimes, it’s the hair that carries the moment: a freshly pressed, softly curled bob with bounce and body, moving like silk and delivering just the right amount of drama.
“Bounce, volume, and playfulness are the hallmarks of the fluffy bob,” says Brenton Diallo, a New York City-based hairstylist who’s been working behind the chair since the early ’90s. He recalls clients routinely bringing in photos of the great Whitney Houston and Tisha Campbell as reference points.
@hairbyanaiss Fluffy bob 😍 #hairbyanais #ukhairstylist #foryoupage ♬ Che Che (feat. Asake) - Young Jonn
“Soft, strategic layers are what give this cut its movement and fullness while keeping it light and bouncy,” says Alex Vann, a hairstylist and salon owner in Duluth, Georgia. “What makes it special is the lift at the root and those soft bends throughout the hair. It’s polished, touchable, and frames the face beautifully while still feeling effortless,” she adds.
According to Diallo, the look was partly shaped by the tools of the era; heat-styling technology wasn’t as advanced at achieving pin-straight results on textured hair, so a silk press in the ’90s often yielded airy volume and soft fullness rather than the glassy, ultra-sleek finish that’s common today.
As trends tend to do, the fluffy bob has circled back around into the spotlight, though you could argue it never really left. Recently, Beyoncé debuted a bouncy, jaw-skimming blonde bob that promptly sent the internet into a tizzy. And if history tells us anything, her co-sign alone is enough to propel a hairstyle straight into trend territory. Says Vann, “That’s the energy we’re channeling with today’s fluffy bob, nostalgic but modernized.”
Ahead, pro hairstylists share their techniques for achieving this timeless look, plus the best tips for making your fluffy bob last as long as possible.
How to get a fluffy bob
“The cut itself is the foundation of the style,” Vann says. “To achieve the fluffy bob properly, soft layers must be added to create body, volume, and natural movement.” The stylist recommends booking an appointment for a layered bob haircut and bringing in reference images to communicate the exact look you want. After your cut (which usually happens after the hair has been washed and blown out), a classic silk press and pin-curl set (the large curls created with a barrel wand and held in place by clips) is the styling method that brings the fluffy bob to life.
According to both Vann and Diallo, the key to getting a great silk press actually begins at the shampoo bowl. “I always start with a clarifying shampoo to remove product buildup,” says Diallo. As for me, I typically reach for the Olaplex No. 4C because it strips away product without leaving my hair feeling parched.
@samthemakeupartist The iconic 90s fluffy bob😍 #90shairstyle #fluffyhair @ghd south africa @TRESemméSA @TRESemmé ♬ Originalton - THATBOII
Then, Diallo suggests, reach for a moisturizing shampoo. He “sometimes shampoos with this formula twice,” he explains, “to make sure the hair is thoroughly cleansed.” Residual buildup can completely sabotage your entire style, as it leads to a stiff, crunchy press instead of the soft, fluid movement a fluffy bob requires.
Diallo prefers the Davines OI Hair Softening Shampoo as his moisturizing formula. He used it on me recently, and I understood why: It leaves hair incredibly silky, and smells just as luxurious. At Vann’s salon, she relies on Pureology to achieve a clean and healthy base before styling: “We love Pureology shampoos and conditioners because they keep the hair strong and soft without weighing it down,” she says.
@bethanralloyd Girls just like that she’s a proud owner of a 90s bob x forever grateful to Molly my angel @The Head Spa Manchester no one does it better #palegirlsoftiktok #palegirlmakeup #90sbob ♬ Kiss It Better 90s Remix by Noxz - Dick Mercury
After the hair has been washed and conditioned, detangle and divide it into sections—six to eight is ideal, especially for thicker textures. Spritz on a heat protectant (Diallo stays in the Davines family, using the OI All-in-One Milk, which hydrates the hair, controls frizz, and preps the strands for heat). Next, blow-dry your hair in sections using either a comb attachment (I swear by the wide-tooth attachment on the Dyson Supersonic blow-dryer) or a Denman brush with a traditional dryer to stretch the hair. Both techniques create a soft, voluminous blowout; it simply comes down to personal preference and control. Vann prefers to use a round-brush blow-dryer, “lifting at the root and slightly over-directing sections for bounce,” she explains.
Diallo recommends using a hot comb or a pencil-thin flatiron at the roots and hairline only, leaving the lengths largely untouched. “Once I’ve straightened the roots, I’ll use a curling iron to create a full pin-curl set,” he says. Both Diallo and Vann prefer the added lift a 1-1⁄2-inch barrel curling iron provides. For a fluffy bob, the goal isn’t pin-straight sleekness but buoyant movement, so skipping an allover flatiron helps preserve airy volume while still smoothing frizz and texture. Vann says this is “the key is to create soft bends, not tight curls, and alternate directions for that effortless feel.”
@alexandra_nx This came out sooo good! 😍 used the @wavytalkofficial thermal brush to achieve this blowout look! #wavytalkthermalbrush #90sblowout #fluffyhair #bob ♬ Wishing on a Star - Rose Royce
After the pin curls cool and set, take them down, and coat your hands with a lightweight oil. Diallo reaches for the Matrix Food for Soft Oil to seal in moisture. “I gently shake out the curls with my hands before shaping with a wide-tooth comb,” he says.
The result is playful and touchable—a style meant to be flipped, tousled, and lived in. In fact, the more you move it around, the better it looks.
How to style and maintain a fluffy bob at home
One of the best things about a fluffy bob is that it requires minimal styling after the initial appointment—but proper maintenance is essential. “Every night, pin curl your hair and wear a bonnet with a silk band or a silk scarf to protect your edges,” says Diallo. When you remove the pins each morning, the curls should fall effortlessly, framing your face with soft, fluid waves that settle naturally as you shake your head.
@certified_kbb Replying to @thatdamnkaykay BOB styling and maintenance tutorial! . This is what has been working for me since I got my bob hair cut! Fine, low-density hair girlies can have volume too! @Porsche Rashi @amika @Nexxus Hair Care . . #bob #haircut #hairmaintenance #finehairtutorials #90sbob ♬ original sound - Kayla B | Beauty Creator✨
If you stick to this routine, Diallo says, your fluffy bob should hold for about a week. Vann says you can even go two weeks, depending on your hair texture. Coarser hair types will likely revert faster. As the hair returns to its natural texture, the bob takes on an even fluffier, more lived-in look—think blowout rather than a polished silk press—which has its own charm. Stylists are already predicting that this airy, touchable style will be one of the defining hair trends of 2026.
Originally published on Allure.
