So you heard about all its major benefits, and now you’re wondering when to start using retinol. The powerful skin care ingredient is known for treating acne, smoothing fine lines and wrinkles, and improving overall skin texture—but how do you know it’s time to add it in your routine?
First, it’s important to understand what retinol actually is. Retinol is a term used for topical skin care products that contain a vitamin A derivative. Used in serums, face creams, and eye creams, retinol is a type of retinoid.
“Retinoids work by increasing collagen production, as well as increasing the rate of skin-cell turnover,” says Shari Marchbein, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. “Retinol helps treat acne, clogged pores, and blackheads by reducing the stickiness of the cells that clog pores, as well as speeding up the rate at which the skin turns over and regenerates.”
@dr.mamina There are a lot of “retin” words out there. I find it easiest to use the word “retinoids” to refer to all of these magical vitamin A derivatives that we use to help with skin cell renewal and collagen remodeling, like retinol, retinal, tretinoin, Retin-A, adapalene, etc. if you’re just starting out with a retinoid, I would look into retinols or gentle retinals. These these take a little longer to work than the prescription and active form tretinoin (or adapalene or tazarotene), but it comes with less irritation (usually). When it comes to acne, I prefer the active/prescription retinoid like tretinoin and tazarotene. Low strength adapalene is available OTC. #dermatologist #retinA #retinol #retinaldehyde #retinal #tretinoin #skinpurging #wrinkles #antiaging #acne #AcneTreatment #hyperpigmentation ♬ original sound - Dr. Mamina Turegano, MD
Want to get in on these skin care benefits? Ahead, we asked board-certified dermatologists everything you need to know, including when to start using retinol, how to add it to your routine, and more.
When to start using retinol
According to Kiran Mian, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Hudson Dermatology & Laser Surgery in New York City, retinol use comes down to a few factors. “To treat active acne, I recommend starting a retinoid right away,” Dr. Mian says. You can also start as early as needed: “There are gentle options available like adapalene that are appropriate for teenage skin.”
If you’re looking to combat signs of aging, Dr. Mian recommends starting in your mid-20s. “After age 25 you start losing collagen, and the rate of loss increases with age. Other factors that contribute to this rate are sun exposure, stress, smoking, poor diet, and inadequate sleep.”
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What retinol is right for me?
Sensitive skin
“For those with dry or sensitive skin, I like encapsulated retinols, like Biossance Squalane + Retinol Night Serum,” Dr. Mian says. “This one is time released, allowing for slow exposure to retinol, minimizing irritation. It has squalane and other hydrating ingredients for those with extra dry or sensitive skin.”
Normal to dry skin
“For those with normal to dry skin, I really like Avène Retrinal 0.1 Intensive Multi Corrective Cream,” Dr. Mian. “This cream uses retinaldehyde, which is more potent than retinol, and is formulated with hyaluronic acid for a hydrating consistency.”
Mature skin
“For more advanced skin looking for improvement with fine lines, I like Vichy's LiftActiv, as it has retinol and peptides for an added boost of collagen production,” says Dr. Mian.
Oily skin
“I like La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Serum,” says Dr. Mian. “It has niacinamide, which helps with oil production and is great for acne-prone skin.”
How do I use retinol?
Slow and steady wins the race when it comes to retinol. “Gently pat dry after cleansing at night, then apply a pea-size amount, spreading evenly over the entire face,” says Dr. Mian. “Follow it with a moisturizer. Do this once a week, for about three weeks.”
You may experience some irritation when you first start using retinol. Dr. Mian recommends the sandwich method to help build your tolerance. “You apply moisturizer, apply the retinol, then apply the moisturizer again,” she says. “I also like what I call the base-layer technique. Much like thermal wear under a sweater, I like to apply a thin hydrating serum like RoC Skincare’s Hydration+ Serum on damp skin to lock in moisture, then apply your retinol followed by a moisturizer.
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First-time users can experience skin flaking after the first few weeks. To combat this, Dr. Mian recommends adding a thin layer of a barrier cream like Avène Cicalfate+ Restorative Protective Cream or Skintific 5X Barrier Repair Moisturizing Gel. “Think of this as a soothing blanket on top of your skin before bed to speed up repair,” she says.
If you experience no irritation, you can increase frequency to “two times a week, and so on until your skin reaches its tolerance,” Dr. Mian says. “My skin tolerates a retinol about four times per week.”
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What should I avoid when using retinol?
You’ll want to avoid waxing and be careful with laser treatments. “Retinol makes your skin cells less adhesive, making it easier for skin to be pulled off with the force of waxing,” says Dr. Mian. “Skin can be more sensitive to laser treatments, so stopping your retinol one week before a treatment is important.”
When it comes to the rest of your skin care routine, be wary of actives, which can irritate skin further. “Add actives one at a time to prevent irritation or barrier disruption. Sun exposure can also feel more intense with retinol use, so make sure to wear sunscreen.”
Originally published on Glamour US.
