Deciding to go natural is a major decision. If you’ve been perming your hair for years, the thought alone can feel overwhelming—there may be a swirl of questions in your mind, the biggest one probably being: blend your new growth with your relaxed mid-lengths and ends, or do a big chop?
“For many, the big chop signifies renewal, rebirth, and a chance to see the real you that has been hiding right beneath the surface,” says Lorraine Massey, owner of Spiral (x,y,z) salon. But if you’re not quite ready for a big reveal, you have other options. You can slowly cut away your relaxed ends until you reach the final destination: 100 percent natural—this is called transitioning.
The transitioning process is different for everyone. “The amount of time it takes to completely transition depends on the length of your relaxed hair, how often you trim or cut off the relaxed hair, and how fast your hair grows," says Sophia Emmanuel, a cosmetologist at Crown Worthy NYC.
Brendnetta Ashley, a hairstylist in San Francisco, warns all her clients who choose to transition that “eventually, it's going to get to a point where you have two different textures,” she says. “You have the mid-lengths and the ends, which have been living on the head the longest, and are straight and delicate from chemical processing. Then you have your new growth, your curly texture.” As your natural hair continues to grow in, that line of demarcation becomes more pronounced—and often more challenging to manage.
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If you’re in that stage now (or approaching it), the process doesn’t have to feel overwhelming. Working with a stylist who understands your texture and long-term goals can make all the difference. “This is where you have to start having very serious conversations with your stylist,” says Ashley, who notes that topics like timing a big chop and which styles to avoid should be discussed early.
And if regular salon visits aren’t feasible—or you want to feel more informed between appointments—these expert-approved tips can make the journey more seamless. Ahead, pro hairstylists advise on how to transition out of a relaxer while minimizing breakage and maintaining confidence in your hair.
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Focus on moisturizing and repairing the hair
Relaxers alter the structure of your hair by “breaking disulfide bonds in the hair to loosen your curl pattern,” cosmetic chemist Erica Douglas previously told Allure. Douglas explains that this makes the strands weaker, so focusing on conditioning and strengthening the hair will be most beneficial as you transition. Use conditioners that include bond-building formulas and ingredients like the Olaplex No.5 Hydrating Curl Conditioner or the Redken Acidic Bonding Curls Conditioner.
Ashley recommends getting monthly deep conditioning treatments at a salon or using a deep conditioner at home once a month. "You have to keep up with your conditioning treatments," she emphasizes. Associate beauty editor Annie Blay-Tettey swears by the Olaplex Curl Bonding Treatment, a three-step process that repairs damaged strands, resulting in healthier, more defined curls.
Always Detangle Delicately
As you navigate your new texture, tangles may pop up more frequently than before—especially at the section where the relaxed and natural hair meet. To combat this, Ursula Stephen, a hairstylist in New York City, instructs her clients to work in small sections when detangling. "The smaller the section, the safer the detangling process," she adds. Go slowly when you're detangling your hair and make sure you have the right tools on hand. "You need a detangling product, sectioning clips, a wide-tooth comb, time, and patience," Stephen explains.
Ashley recommends arming yourself with a conditioner or leave-in that has plenty of slip. Start at the ends of your hair and comb, working your way up. Michele Aquino, a hairstylist in Riverdale, New York, recommends the Amika Hydro Rush Intense Moisture Leave-In Conditioner, which “melts through tangles with ease,” says Aquino. “This is my hydration heavyweight. It's perfect for textured hair that feels brittle, dry, or sun-damaged,” Aquino previously told Allure.
Embrace protective and curly styles
Miko Branch, a hairstylist and cofounder of Miss Jessie's, optimistically shares that there are many ways to hide the two dueling hair textures. "Protective hairstyles are key," says Branch. Hairstylist and salon owner, Stephen, agrees. "You can alternate protective styles like braids and weaves. You can also wear wigs," says Stephen. But be sure to take care of your hair underneath your wigs, weaves, and braids—not leaving it in for more than four weeks without washing. Moisturizing your scalp weekly with a leave-in spray is a great place to start (check out our guide to wearing protective styles without damaging your hair).
Once you have more natural than relaxed hair, “you should try styles that make the most of your curls rather than trying to straighten the new growth," says Leona Wilson, a hairstylist and owner of LW Salon in TK, who recommends styles like flexi rod sets, braid-outs, twist-outs, and foam curlers.
Another way to blend your two textures is to get a silk press (a process in which the hair is straightened with heat). This will keep your natural hair blended with your relaxed ends since all your hair will be straight. With this option, however, you have to be very careful—some experts recommend avoiding it altogether. “Constantly heat styling your hair will only increase the risk of damage,” Michelle Henry, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, previously told Allure. But if you're really partial to silk presses and want to wear your hair straight as you transition, “I’d recommend only getting a silk press once a month,” says Stephen.
Alternatively, you can opt for a fluffy blowout, using a blow dryer, which allows you to use less heat while still achieving a uniform texture. "If you must use heat [while transitioning], hooded dryers, blow-dryers, and any hot tool must be on low setting," says Wilson. "Use a thermal leave-in cream or spray before blow-drying or flat-ironing." We love the K18 HeatBounce Leave-In Conditioner Heat Protectant and the Doux O.P.P. One-Pass-Press Heat Protection Spray, both of which soften the hair for easier detangling while providing heat protection up to 450 degrees.
Keep up with your trims
Instead of doing one big chop, those who choose to transition are essentially committing to cutting their hair little by little over time. While you may want to maintain as much of your length as possible, it's important to keep up with your trims to make progress in your transitioning journey. “I keep my clients on a very tight schedule, where they get a trim every six weeks so we can start to remove those ends as quickly as possible,” says Ashley. How much hair you remove each trim is up to you and your stylist, but Ashley says two to three inches is customary.
Ashley likes to coach her clients through trims using popular haircuts as a reference point. “If they have shoulder-length hair, I tell them in six months, let's aim for a bob," says Ashley, who finds that this method eases people's minds about how much hair they're losing.
Finally, cut off what's left of your relaxer
This final step can be liberating after a long journey filled with trims, protective styles, and a whole lot of patience.
According to Wilson, "after six to eight months, your relaxer will likely be on its last legs." At this point, she recommends cutting the rest of the relaxed hair off and starting to embrace your new texture (and explore its possibilities). "Now is the time to get to know your gorgeous natural hair—and keep it hydrated and healthy," she says.
If you can, have a hairstylist do your cut so they can properly shape and style your curls or coils—plus they can set you up with a routine to maintain at home that works best for your hair.
Originally published on Allure.
