Should concealer be lighter than foundation? It sounds like a simple enough question, but the answer depends on what you want it to do. For many of us, concealer is that one desert island product we could never be without – a makeup kit essential that can hide all signs of a late night, brighten the under-eye area and give skin a fresher look.
Bobbi Brown, legendary makeup artist and founder of Jones Road, says “a good concealer should lighten and hide under-eye darkness” – but its talents don't stop there. The right formula can also camouflage blemishes, even out discolouration and strategically highlight the face, sometimes with little need for foundation at all. Getting the most out of it, though, comes down to one thing: choosing the right colour. Ahead, the experts explain how to find your match – and when going lighter is the right call.
Should concealer be lighter than foundation?
As a general rule, it depends on what you’re trying to achieve. “I don’t believe in one concealer shade doing everything,” says Bernicia Boateng, Estée Lauder UK Makeup Artistry Partner. “If you’re concealing blemishes, pigmentation or areas of discolouration, I’d always recommend staying as close to your foundation and natural skin tone as possible.” The aim, she explains, is for your concealer to disappear seamlessly into the surrounding skin rather than draw attention to the area.
Brown agrees that going lighter can have the opposite of the desired effect when covering a blemish. “You never want to use under-eye concealer,” she says. “Since under-eye concealer is one shade lighter than your skin tone, it will only highlight what you want to hide.” For brightening, however, the rules change. Boateng recommends going slightly lighter “particularly underneath the eyes or through the centre of the face to create brightness and dimension.”
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How much lighter should concealer be than foundation?
If brightening is the goal, both Brown and Boateng agree that around one shade lighter than your foundation is a good rule of thumb. As Boateng explains, “Glowing, natural-looking makeup is all just a play on light and dark,” and using a slightly lighter shade can help create that subtle dimension. “You can go a little brighter for a more glamorous, sculpted finish,” she adds, “but there’s a difference between brightening and simply looking too light.” The transition between your foundation and concealer should still feel seamless.
So, how can you tell if you’ve gone too far? If your under-eye area looks grey, ashy or noticeably disconnected from the rest of your complexion, particularly on deeper skin tones, Boateng says your concealer is likely too light or the undertone isn't quite right. Equally, if an area you’re trying to brighten looks heavy, dull or creates a noticeable darker patch, you may have gone too deep.
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How do I know what shade of concealer to get?
A foundation that already matches your skin well is a useful place to start. “That gives you a really good reference point when looking at concealer shade descriptions and undertones online,” says Boateng. From there, consider what you want your concealer to achieve: for blemishes and pigmentation, look for the closest match to your skin tone; for brightening, use that shade as your starting point and go slightly lighter while sticking to a complementary undertone.
As for finding that complementary undertone, Boateng recommends looking at whether your skin reads warm or golden, cool, neutral or more red. When shopping online, she suggests checking swatches on models with a similar complexion rather than relying on how a shade appears in the tube. Under-eye darkness may require another step. “Depending on your skin tone and the colour of your dark circles, you may need some warmth or colour correction first, followed by a concealer that is slightly lighter to brighten,” she explains.
Brown, for instance, recommends starting with a pink or peach-toned colour corrector to help neutralise dark areas before following with concealer. Colour correction isn't one-size-fits-all, though – as Boateng points out, both your skin tone and the colour of your dark circles come into play.
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Should concealer ever be darker than foundation?
“Makeup is about creating dimension, so I’m never completely tied to the idea that concealer has to be lighter,” says Boateng. For instance, she explains that a slightly deeper shade can help correct certain areas of pigmentation before applying your complexion products. Deeper complexion shades can also be used strategically to add warmth or soft definition to the face. “The important thing is understanding why you’re choosing a deeper shade rather than simply going darker for the sake of it,” she adds.
In fact, Boateng says “another common mistake is trying to use the same concealer shade everywhere.” Rather than relying on a single colour, consider what you want to achieve in each area of the face and adjust accordingly. “Your skin naturally has different tones and dimensions, and good makeup should work with that rather than flatten everything into one colour,” she says. Her parting advice? “The perfect concealer should make people notice your skin before they notice your makeup.”
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Originally published on Glamour UK.
