If your strands are dry or you deal with a lot of flyaways and static, it’s time to learn how to use hair oil. This multitasking hair care product is known for reducing frizz, boosting shine, and hydrating split ends, and some natural oils even help with hair growth. However, these benefits can’t be fully enjoyed if you’re left with flat and slick strands. Ahead, pro hairstylists share how to use hair oil the right way, so you don’t end up feeling like a greasy mess.
How to use hair oil on your hair type
According to Christine Bellemare, co-owner of Maven, A Collect salon in Boston, you want to start by assessing your strands. “Hair oil works well for all hair types, but the amount and method of application should vary,” she says. If you have fine or thin hair, you’ll want to be very careful with using too much oil. “Start with just a drop or two to avoid weighing the hair down or making it look greasy—focus on the ends, not the roots,” says Bellemare. If you have thick or coarse hair, you have a bit more leeway. “Thicker or coarse hair types can handle more product and may benefit from applying it throughout the lengths to smooth and soften texture,” says Bellemare. “For curly and wavy hair, hair oil helps define curls, reduce frizz, and seal in hydration.”
As for which oils work for certain hair types, Brendnetta Ashley, a hairstylist and Schwarzkopf Professional Ambassador, recommends lightweight oils like grapeseed or jojoba. For fine hair, argan oil is ideal, while thick hair and curly and coily hair work better with heavier oils like castor or coconut oil. Some products might also feature antioxidants like vitamin E. This helps nourish and protect hair from external aggressors like UV damage and pollution, which can cause weakness and buildup.
On ends
While you can apply hair oil to damp or dry hair, Bellemare recommends using it on dry strands because oil and water don’t mix. “On wet hair, it can’t properly absorb and may just sit on the surface,” she says. “Applying it to dry hair helps seal in moisture, adds shine, and smooths frizz where it’s most effective. It’s also best to avoid using oil before blow-drying, as most oils aren’t heat protectants and can cause damage when exposed to high heat.”
Read the instructions and drop the appropriate amount of hair oil onto your palm. Rub your hands together, and start at the very ends of your strands, then work the oil through the hair, making your way up to your midlengths. With the excess oil left between your fingers, comb the rest through the midlengths to the ends to add shine.
As a treatment
Hair oils that are rich in fatty acids can help improve hair density and encourage a balanced, healthy environment for hair to grow in, according to Rogerio Cavalcante, a hairstylist and owner of the Second Floor Salon in NYC. If you’re using hair oil as an overnight treatment to help with breakage, brittle strands, and thinning, Cavalcante recommends timing it with your washday. Use a generous amount on the scalp and ends before bed, then wash out the excess the morning after. Don’t have the time? Bellemare says to leave the treatment on for at least 30 minutes, though overnight is recommended for deeper nourishment. “Be sure to shampoo and condition thoroughly afterward to remove excess oil and prevent product buildup.”
When should I use hair oil?
The optimal times to use hair oil are before washing your hair or after a blow-dry. “Before washing, apply it to the midlengths and ends to create a protective barrier that helps prevent shampoo from stripping moisture, especially for dry or coarse hair,” says Bellemare. “It’s also ideal as a finishing step after blow-drying; once hair is fully dry, it helps lock in moisture, smooth frizz, and boost shine.”
As far as how often to use hair oil, this also depends on your hair type, says Amy Huson, owner of Rose Salon in Venice, California. “If you have oily hair, I recommend applying it only one to two times a week. Normal hair types can tolerate three times a week,” she says. If you have coarse or dry hair, a small daily dose of oil is beneficial, as well as a weekly treatment oil to make your hair look shiny and healthier.
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Heat-protectant oils
Some oils require application on damp hair or hair that’s about to be dried—those would be heat-protecting oils. You can also use it on dry hair before using a heat-styling tool like a curling iron or straightener to help shield and protect strands from getting fried.
Hair finishing oils
A hair finishing oil, on the other hand, is used after your blowout is complete. These will help make your hair look shinier and can help tame flyaways and frizz. It’s important to keep a light application with these to avoid heavy or limp strands.
Why is my hair still frizzy after hair oil?
If you’ve followed the steps above and you’re still dealing with frizz, Bellemare says there might be more factors at play. “Frizz can stem from a mix of factors—dryness, chemical or heat damage, lack of moisture, and environmental conditions like humidity,” she says. Although hair oil can help smooth strands and lock in moisture, it doesn’t hydrate completely on its own. “Your hair likely needs deeper moisture,” Bellemare says. “Try using a hydrating shampoo, conditioner, or leave-in treatment before applying oil to better target the root issue. Think of oil as a sealant—it works best after proper hydration, not in place of it.”
Although hair oil has plenty of benefits, it’s not going to change your hair texture. “Some hair types are naturally more prone to frizz,” says Bellemare. “While oil can enhance smoothness and shine, it won’t change your hair’s natural behavior.”
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When should you avoid using hair oil?
If your scalp is oily or prone to buildup, Cavalcante recommends avoiding the roots entirely. Even if you have thicker hair, using too much oil in your routine will weigh hair down and can make it look greasy. A light hand is best during application, and don’t overdo it with daily application unless it’s minimal. Another thing to note: Huson debunks the myth that yellow oil tints blonde hair types. “You’d have to be platinum and use a lot of the (very heavily toned yellow) oil for it to actually make a difference at all,” she says, so don’t be afraid to use an oil that has a slight hue to it.
Originally published on Glamour UK.
