As one of the most universal mature skin concerns, answers on how to treat fine lines aren't always straightforward. Plenty of products boast miracle results, but since multiple longterm factors contribute to the development of fine lines, you're likely to be disappointed if you expect an overnight fix.
“Most people start to notice their first fine lines in their late twenties to early thirties, when natural collagen production begins to slow,” says Dr. Whitney Hovenic, double board-certified dermatologist, Mohs surgeon, and co-founder of sunscreen brand SPOOGE. “Sun exposure, genetics, and lifestyle habits such as smoking or using tanning beds can speed this up and make lines appear earlier.” The good news, however, is that it's entirely possible to reduce the appearance of fine lines—and to prevent more from forming—using skin care.
What are the best skincare ingredients for treating fine lines on mature skin?
When caring for mature skin, half the battle is finding the right combination of targeted ingredients for your unique concerns.
Treating existing fine lines
“For visible fine lines, retinoids are the gold standard because they stimulate collagen and improve skin texture,” Dr. Hovenic says. “Gentle exfoliating acids like glycolic acid or lactic acid can also help soften lines and brighten the complexion.”
“Antioxidants prevent and reverse oxidative skin damage to help with fine lines, wrinkles, erythema, sagging and hyperpigmentation,” says Dr. Debbie Palmer, board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of Dermatology Associates of New York. Vitamins C and E are common examples, but if you're looking for something stronger, Dr. Palmer recommends trying a product containing coffee berry fruit.
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Hydrating agents are also key, since wrinkles and folds can appear deeper and more pronounced on dry skin. “Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that hydrates by attracting and retaining moisture in the skin and plumping fine lines,” Dr. Palmer says. Ceramides accomplish a similar goal: “As a lipid molecule that helps to repair the skin barrier, they help the skin retain moisture to improve firmness and fine lines.”
Preventing additional fine lines
Whether you've just started noticing fine lines, or you've been dealing with them for years, you can always take measures to prevent more from forming. “Preventive skincare is all about protecting the skin and keeping it strong,” Dr. Hovenic says. Unsurprisingly, daily SPF is one of the most critical—and easiest!—measures you can take. Dr. Hovenic also recommends incorporating peptides to support collagen production, and hyaluronic acid, which doubles as a preventative agent but “keeping the skin hydrated and plump to minimize early creasing.”
How should you treat fine lines on different parts of your face?
You may notice that your fine lines are more severe—or less responsive to treatment—on specific areas of your face, like around your eyes or lips. “This is because of repetitive facial expressions, skin thickness, and underlying bone structure loss,”
How to treat fine lines around eyes
Dr. Hovenic notes that the skin around the eyes is more delicate than most of the face—so it's generally a good idea to invest in a targeted eye cream. For fine lines and wrinkles, look for one with retinol. While general retinol products might cause irritation and redness in this area, eye-specific products will be gentler and more targeted toward thinner skin.
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How to treat fine lines around lips and mouth
“Upper lip lines are difficult to treat because they are caused by repetitive muscle movement with talking and expressions, and volume loss occurs in both lip volume and also underlying bone structure,” Dr. Palmer says. Incorporating products containing the ingredients listed above will help smooth fine lines around your mouth area over time, and for daily appearance-based concerns, keeping skin hydrated goes a long way. If you notice your lipstick or liner bleeding into creases around your lips, stock up on hyaluronic acid and peptide-infused balms and treatments. These ingredients help plump the skin, which helps prevent product settling and deepening of fine lines.
How to treat fine lines on your forehead
Since expressive forehead lines can be a bit deeper, “it’s important to have realistic expectations when utilizing creams to target wrinkles,” board-certified dermatologist Jeaneen A. Chappell, MD, FAAD, founder and CEO of Chappell Dermatology in Dallas told Glamour. “Generally speaking, wrinkle creams work best on fine lines versus deeper wrinkles.” When looking for a cream to target finer lines on the forehead, most experts recommend both retinol and Vitamin C.
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Where does fine line treatment fit into your mature skincare routine?
Knowing which ingredients to look out for in your fine line-busting products is one thing, but to see results, you also have to work them into your general skincare routine effectively.
Morning routine
Both Dr. Hovenic and Dr. Palmer recommend using an antioxidant serum (like Vitamin C) in the morning after a gentle cleanser. “A simple routine works best,” Dr. Hovenic says: Follow your serum with a simple moisturizer and sunscreen—or a multitasker, like SPOOGE's Dew Me daily formula.
Nighttime routine
Heavy-duty wrinkle repair is usually most effective in your nighttime routine, since environmental factors won't interfere. “I recommend slowly adding an alpha-hydroxy acid wash nightly, and a pea-sized amount of a retinoid twice weekly to start,” Dr. Palmer says.
In terms of layering skincare, Dr. Hovenic advises using your retinoid or exfoliating product first, followed by a peptide serum, then seal it all in with a rich moisturizer. Dr. Hovenic says. “Apply products in thin, even layers, starting with the lightest consistency, like serums, and finish with heavier creams or oils," she says. Use gentle, upward motions to avoid tugging on the skin, especially in delicate areas.”
Sensitive skin
If you have sensitive skin, it may take some time to effectively integrate fine line targeting ingredients into your routine. The key it to take it slow, and build up your tolerance. Dr. Palmer says that the 'sandwich method can help reduce irritation: “Applying a light moisturizer under a wrinkle cream, and then layering another moisturizer on top.” She also recommends that patients with sensistive skin start with an antioxidant product in place or retinoids and alpha-hydroxy acids, then eventually build up to these ingredients.
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Which common mistakes should you avoid if fine lines are a concern?
Skipping SPF
“You can have the best anti-aging products in the world, but without daily SPF, much of that effort is wasted,” Dr. Hovenic says. “UV exposure rapidly breaks down collagen, causing fine lines to appear earlier and look more pronounced, even when the rest of your routine is on point.”
Overloading products
It might make sense in theory to slather on every product that targets fine lines at once, but in practice, it'll lead to irritation that can draw more attention to your concerns. “In skincare, more is not better,” Dr. Palmer says. “I see patients applying too many products and using too much in quantity of the products which can over process the skin and dry it out.”
Under-moisturizing
Harsher products which stimulate cell turnover tend to come to mind first when targeting fine lines, but keeping the skin hydrated is just as important. Mature skin loses water faster, so if you're noticing more fine lines than usual, it might be a sign to level up your moisturizers. “When the skin is over-processed and dry the fine lines can look worse,” Dr. Palmer says.
Grace McCarty is the associate beauty editor at Glamour.
Original article appeared on GLAMOUR US
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