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Glamour Women’s Month Series: Chef Jill Okkers

Women’s Month is about celebrating women from all walks of life who are doing amazing things.

Below we chat with the Executive Development Chef of Tashas Group, Jill Okkers, who has been shaking things up in the culinary industry for years with her passion, creativity and commitment to making and being the difference.

Can you start us off with a short introduction to Jill Okkers?

I am the Executive Development Chef of Tashas Group between Dubai and South Africa. I currently create and develop food for all 5 brands. I consider myself to be dynamic, kind, loving, hardworking, humble, super organised, a major multitasker, insanely passionate about all things food, driven, with strong views on the world.

I am a daughter, sister, and aunt. An over-thinker, never settling for less, a constant goal setter, craving the need to always achieve and do more. Someone who always needs to grow, develop, and learn. Complacency drives me crazy. I’m always asking questions and making statements, even if it raises eyebrows. I am constantly talking about racial inequality and the lack of female and POC representation. I am incessantly pushing for perfection in what I do. I love a challenge. I’m a bookworm. A super cheerleader for friends and family. Confident in what I do as a chef. Always going against the grain to make a difference.

What made you decide to become a chef and how did you go about it?

When I completed matric, I did a gap year that took me to America. Upon returning to South Africa, I opted to study Journalism. This was more of a safety net. I thought, at the time, that being a chef was only for men. Women only cook at home, right? After too much debate with my dad, I applied to Culinary School. He took me to buy my first set of knives and drove me to my first job interview. I then worked and studied at the Vineyard Hotel in Cape Town. Through the Culinary Institute for Hospitality, I started in hotels and moved to restaurants, worked on islands, did private work, and consulted for restaurants. I left jobs because of ego-driven chefs, and have even thought that maybe I should leave the industry and go work in a bank. But there’s nothing that excites me more than the rush that comes with putting a plate of food in front of someone and having them experience something magical.

Picture: Jill Okkers, Instagram/@foodbyjill/@julesdunne

What do you love most about your job and industry?

Seeing the smiles on people’s faces when they eat my food. Also, being a mentor to my staff. Most times they go through the trenches with me. There’s one goal and that’s making sure that the food that reaches that table is always perfect.

My industry - I love the constant innovation and creativity of other chefs. Also, the ones that have no fear in what they cook and how they cook it.

What challenges have you faced as a woman in the professional kitchen and how have you overcome those challenges?

Too many to mention. In the first job interview I had, the head chef told me I won’t last 2 months. I was the only girl in the group of 6 students placed. I stayed in that job for 6 years. Outworking all 5 men. Also, for me it’s not just about being a woman, it’s about being a woman of colour. Dealing with suppliers or new people, who assume that I am a white male! The mindset of some is still very archaic in some ways. I have dealt with people or other chefs that walk into my space or kitchen and assume that I am the one peeling the potatoes.

I remember a lunch service where we had to cook with a group of much older male chefs. Their teams walked into my space, completely disrespecting, not just me, but also my staff. Super arrogant, full of ego, I call it the peacock walk, all feathers, all fluff. They don’t want to acknowledge that a woman can lead a kitchen! My back is always up against a wall, even when I feel like I’ve earned my stripes. A female, that’s a chef, that’s a POC, can’t be! It’s been almost 20 years. I’ve been doing this for that long, and I still feel like I am not taken seriously enough in certain elements due to who I am – in human form, not who I am as a chef. Overcoming these, my confidence is not swayed by this old, antiquated way of thinking. I’m also super proud of what I bring to the table, excuse the pun, and I am very focused on adding value to what I do and who I engage with. It’s a constant battle, and I think we have come a long way, but still have a very long way to go. Equality, representation, is so important, not just for me but also for the ones watching.

What has been the most defining moment of your career thus far?

Opening The Flamingo Room by tashas, in Dubai and being able to meet and have coffee with Marco Pierre White.

Picture: Jill Okkers, Supplied

What does women’s month mean to you?

To me, we need to be applauded every day. Every hour. We are still fighting battles that our grandmothers or mothers fought. Still raising our voices to inequality, prejudice, violence, the right to our bodies. Still having conversations about why it’s important to not stereotype, to not discriminate. Being a woman is still a battle. We can’t age, swear, dress inappropriately, put on weight, get crows feet. We still deal with a beauty standard that no one can obtain unless you have a good plastic surgeon, personal chef and dermatologist on speed dial. We have to face “The Man”, each day, still have to look over our shoulder, still have to walk home in fear, birth the children, make the food and do the laundry. So please, celebrate us every day. It just makes sense.

In your opinion, in your industry and South Africa in general, has there been more movement towards gender equality?

I think there's been more celebration of female chefs and how many you see in the industry now, compared to 15 years ago. We have amazing chefs that have opened restaurants, been on top 100 and 50 lists. Chefs that have really moulded the industry for many of us and many of the next generation, but we still are not seeing enough gender equality, or at least, it’s very slow-moving. Dominique Crenn once said, “It's a really hard business, it's a survival business. When you give someone an award and you tell them that they are the best female chef in the world, you alienate them from their peers.” Chefs are chefs, being male doesn’t mean you cook better than me. It doesn’t mean you do your job better than me, it just means you get seen as “the boss” easier.

Who are the women in your life who have inspired you and taught you important lessons and values?

My mother, Marilyn. We lost our dad in January to Covid and the way she has dealt with the loss and kept us all above water has been amazing. I should have listened to her more when I was younger.

My sister, Cindy. She’s magical. The softest yet fiercest woman, and I am so proud to have her in my corner.

My boss, Natasha. She allows me to do what I do. There are so many, so this list can go on and on, but inspiration and impact happen daily, even with my staff and colleagues.

How do you define success?

Success is doing what you want, when you want, however you want. Not having someone put a lid on what I want to achieve. Going out there and living my dreams, achieving my goals, setting myself targets, having no limitations and stepping out in faith and believing I can do it.

Picture: Jill Okkers, Instagram/@foodbyjill

Do you have any advice for women looking into culinary arts career choices?

There is no candy-coated flower sprinkle advice for this industry. You need to go in and do the graft. Work the hours, have an edge, not just talent. People will try to break you, daily, so you need to be able to keep both feet on the ground while keeping both eyes open. Learn, read, experience, eat all the food, taste everything, expose yourself to more, be creative, do more. The quicker you can say “it needs more salt” the better.

Instagram: @foodbyjill

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