As a makeup novice, it wasn’t until I learned how to apply eyeshadow to hooded eyes that I finally started seeing the results I was looking for. Unfortunately, I had to learn the hard way that not every tutorial on your FYP will give you the same result – dependent on your eye shape – and eyeshadow for hooded eyes can come with some unique considerations.
The term hooded eyes refers to a very common eye shape in which a fold of skin or soft tissue below the brow bone mostly or completely covers the upper eyelid when the eyes are open. Because of this, eyeshadow applied directly to the eyelid may seem to disappear, and pigmented looks that extend beyond the crease into the brow bone can appear fragmented.
“I have hooded eyes, and eyeshadow – and really making it show up on the lid – has always been a challenge,” says professional makeup artist Kirin Bhatty. Product creasing within the eye’s natural fold can also be tricky, says celebrity makeup artist Christian Briceno. But don’t worry, with the right techniques you can create eyeshadow looks that not only work with your lids, but make your eyes – and your whole makeup – pop.
From bold swipes of colour to soft shimmering glam, keep reading to find out our experts’ best tips for how to apply eyeshadow to hooded eyes.
How should you prep your lids for eyeshadow?
“A smooth base is everything,” Christian says. “I always start with an eyeshadow primer to control oil and give the eyeshadow something to grab onto.” He suggests Urban Decay Primer Potion or Nars Smudgeproof Eyeshadow Base, and notes that if the client’s lids are especially oily, he’ll set the primer with a touch of translucent powder before adding shadow. “That little step makes blending easier and keeps everything locked down,” he says.
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How should you apply eyeshadow to hooded eyes for the best results?
If you want to maximise your eyeshadow look on hooded lids, experts recommend investing in a fluffy, tapered brush. “This tool allows you to exaggerate your lid crease without creating any harsh lines, as the brush is very airy and light,” Kirin says.
Christian recommends using the MAC 217S Blending Brush to pat the product on first, then softly blend out the edges – swiping the product back and forth can muddy the appearance and decrease the product’s integrity on the skin. “With hooded eyes, I’ll cheat the crease by going slightly higher so the colour still shows when eyes are open,” he says. To create this more lifted look, I’ll delicately sweep the colour so it diffuses above the lid and is visible whether your eyes are open or closed.
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How can you make sure your eyeshadow lasts?
Making your eyeshadow last is one of the biggest obstacles for people with hooded eyes as the constant friction and (typically) more oily skin tends to lead to it slowly rubbing away as the day progresses.
Christian emphasises that the longevity of shadow on hooded lids depends on the care you take in applying it. “It’s about layering thin, even amounts of product creams first, then setting them with powders in the same tone so they reinforce each other.”
Kirin also highlights the importance of skin prep and product application, she also recommends finishing with a mist of an ultrafine setting spray, like the Dior Forever Perfect Fix Face Mist. “The goal is grip without weight,” Christian says. While fine mists are great for giving your skin a glowy finish, I’ve found more heavyweight setting sprays are best for keeping my eyeshadow in place with hooded eyes – One/Size On ‘Til Dawn Mattifying Waterproof Setting Spray and Collection Ultra Hold 3-Second Setting Spray are some of my faves.
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Which eyeshadow looks work best on hooded eyes?
In many cases, Kirin says, “creating the illusion of more eyelid space is key.” She starts by applying deeper shadows along the lash line, then blending upward to create a gradient that extends beyond the natural crease. “Neutral to deep gradients always photograph beautifully on hooded eyes,” Christian says. And according to him, using matte shades in and above the natural lid crease gives instant definition. For everyday eyeshadow looks that catch light and crease minimally, try Ilia The Necessary Eyeshadow Palette.
For softer, more ethereal glam, a hint of sparkle also works beautifully with hooded eyes. To maximise these products, Christian recommends keeping shimmer “only on the movable lid or inner corner of the eye, so it highlights without overwhelming.” When applying any metallic product, Kirin uses her finger to press on the product to enhance control and limit transfer.
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If bold eyeshadow is your thing, you can have a lot of fun experimenting with different shapes on hooded eyes. To exaggerate the eyes, Christian recommends trying elongated or lifted eyeshadow, a soft wing of shadow, or a smoky lower lash line. Focusing on the lower lid – whether that means defining the waterline with a fine pencil brush or brushing a subtler shade under the lashes – can add drama without relying fully on the upper lid.
No eyeshadow look is off-limits for hooded eyes. With these expert-backed products and techniques – and hopefully some inspiration to try something new – your eyeshadow game is set to peak just in time for smoky season.
Originally published on Glamour UK.
