The two have long been intertwined, each influencing the other in powerful and often immeasurable ways. Music choice often informs how someone dresses, subtly shaping silhouettes, textures and moods. Even colour can signal musical preference, connecting certain palettes to specific rhythms and emotions. Both separate entities of expression, fashion can become a visual extension of musical identity — a powerful form of self-expression shaped by sound.
The evolution of music on the runway
Since the earliest runway presentations, music has played an essential role in shaping the atmosphere of a fashion show. Far more than just background noise, it helps set the pace, heightens emotion and amplifies the overall impact of a collection. The right soundtrack can inject drama, build anticipation or mirror the mood and movement of the garments on display. Think of the infamous Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, which hosts a flurry of musical performances to accompany each collection of lingerie — some sultry and slow, some more energetic and fun.
The fusion of music and fashion can be traced back to the 19th century, when live musicians played softly in the background of fashion shows to set the mood. At the time, music was more of an afterthought and designers had little to no control over what was played. However, this shifted dramatically in the 1960s. Music became a deliberate and integral part of the fashion show experience, with designers selecting prerecorded commercial tracks that complemented their collections. From then on, music began to shape not only the mood of a show but also the identity and image of a brand.
Fashion as an extension of musical identity
Often, the way someone dresses can reveal the music they listen to. Someone with multiple piercings dressed in all-black might be linked to genres like metal, rock, or grunge. People’s identities, whether consciously or not, are heavily shaped by their musical tastes, which also influence the kinds of events they attend. Take jazz, for example: its audience often opts for subtle, elegant attire, clean silhouettes with a touch of sophistication. Compare that to a music festival, where the aesthetic is far more expressive. Think flared trousers, cowboy hats, denim shorts, sheer tops, bold colours and bohemian elements, festival style is a genre all its own. It’s a striking example of how music and fashion speak the same language, communicating who we are without a single word.
Hip-Hop: the genre that changed it all
There is no denying that hip-hop has had the most visible and impactful relationship with fashion. The music genre and associated streetwear have evolved hand-in-hand, creating some of the most iconic collaborations in fashion history. Both are raw, unapologetic, and rooted in authenticity — tools for self-expression. Think of Run-DMC, one of the first rap groups to bring Adidas into the fashion spotlight. Their music mentioned the brand directly, leading to a historic collaboration that marked a major turning point. This paved the way for artists to generate revenue not only through music but through fashion partnerships. More recently, Pharrell Williams, rooted in hip-hop, became the creative director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear — a significant moment in the ongoing integration of fashion and music. “There’s rhythm in the way a garment moves, just like there’s rhythm in how a melody builds. The common language here is freedom: to create, to respond, to trust instinct”
A local beat: Kwaito and the rise of Amapantsula
In South Africa, the 1990s and early 2000s were dominated by the rise of Kwaito. Artists had a strong influence over their audiences, not just in sound but in style — and fans often emulated their favourite performers. Trompies, a standout group of the era, led this cultural shift. Their distinctive fashion, including overalls and Dickies bucket hats, became synonymous with the Amapantsula movement.
Their impact extended beyond music, shaping a generation’s identity and sense of cool. Similarly, it’s hard to think of Thandiswa Mazwai without instantly picturing her in classic Converse All Stars.
Hers was a style choice as iconic as her powerful voice, illustrating how deeply music and fashion intertwine in South African culture.
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