The tailing off of summer signals one thing… the advent of fashion month! Designers are swapping the sun cream for sewing machines, as they prepare to battle it out for the biggest viral moment of the season across New York, London, Milan and Paris. Will quiet luxury prevail, or will the hotly-anticipated creative director debuts result in a shake-up?
Spring/summer 2024 sees Ralph Lauren return to the schedule in New York after a four year hiatus, while in Paris, Gabriela Hearst will present her final collection for Chloé. Milan will play host to the most closely-watched debuts of the season, as Sabato De Sarno unveils his first collection for Gucci and Peter Hawkings makes his inaugural outing at Tom Ford. Plus, the fashion world waits with bated breath for the first drop from Phoebe Philo’s eponymous new label, rumoured to be taking place at some point over fashion month.
Below, Vogue’s guide to what to expect from the big four this season.
New York
The Big Apple is bolstering its brand presence this season with the return of Ralph Lauren. Elsewhere, Helmut Lang opens the season with new creative director Peter Do at the helm, Paul Helbers presents his inaugural show for Fforme and Stuart Vevers celebrates his 10th anniversary at Coach. Emerging talent to look our for, before Luar closes out the week? Palomo Spain, Diotima and Elena Velez. Notable by their absence, meanwhile: Thom Browne, Rodarte and Heron Preston.
London
Buckle up for the Big Smoke, where the unmissable Vogue World: London – a multi-act celebration of the British performing arts – will take over Theatre Royal Drury Lane for one night only, starring everyone from Stormzy to Sienna Miller and getting London Fashion Week off to a suitably fabulous start. The momentum will continue with comebacks from Supriya Lele, Knwls and Ashley Williams, along with LVMH semi-finalist Aaron Esh’s first catwalk show and a London debut for Scandi-favourite Holzweiler. Then there’s Daniel Lee’s sophomore outing for Burberry. What’s more, the British Fashion Council celebrates the 30th anniversary of its prestigious NEWGEN incubator – which has the likes of JW Anderson, Molly Goddard and Harri – with the exhibition REBEL: 30 Years of London Fashion at the Design Museum.
Milan
In a city most associated with tradition, it’s a week of major debuts. Look out for Sabato De Sarno’s debut for Gucci, Peter Hawkings’s first collection for Tom Ford (after the longtime designer for the brand was appointed creative director). Also worth noting: Moschino’s 40th anniversary show, which will incorporate collaborations with stylists Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Katie Grand, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson and Lucia Liu. Elsewhere, burgeoning (and body positive) talent Karoline Vitto has hot footed it from Fashion East’s roster in London to Milan, where she will be presenting her spring/summer 2024 show with the support of Dolce & Gabbana.
Paris
The French capital’s eight-day extravaganza will play host to Gabriela Hearst’s final show at Chloé, along with the usual appearances from French and Japanese heavyweights, from Dior to Saint Laurent, Comme des Garçons to Yohji Yamamoto.
This article was originally published on Vogue UK.
