For years, skincare has focused on treating what we can see: clearing breakouts, fading pigmentation, controlling oil and smoothing texture. But using too many active ingredients or harsh products can sometimes leave the skin barrier feeling worse than before.
That’s where the skin microbiome comes in. The skin is home to billions of microorganisms that help keep it healthy, and looking after this balance is becoming an increasingly important part of skincare.
This is the thinking behind BiomeRenew, a South African skincare brand founded by clinician Dr Ashley Naidoo. Instead of focusing only on individual skin concerns, the range is designed to support the skin’s microbiome while using ingredients such as ceramides, niacinamide, salicylic acid and hyaluronic acid.
We spoke to Dr Ashley Naidoo about why the skin microbiome matters, how postbiotics work and how we can build a skincare routine without overwhelming our skin.
What makes BiomeRenew's approach to skincare different from what was already available when you launched?
When I started BiomeRenew, so much of skincare was focused on attacking the problem: stripping oil, killing bacteria or peeling away pigmentation. That can work in the short term, but it can also leave the skin more reactive and fragile.
We wanted to take a different approach by looking at the skin as an ecosystem. The microbiome plays an important role in keeping skin balanced, so rather than constantly fighting what's happening on the surface, we're interested in supporting the biology underneath it.
I like to describe it as “kombucha for your skin”. We're working with the skin rather than against it. As a clinician, I also wanted every formula to have a clear scientific reason for being there, rather than simply looking good on a shelf.
What does being a proudly South African skincare brand mean to you, particularly in an industry where many consumers look to international brands for innovation?
There's often an assumption that innovation has to come from Seoul, Paris or New York. I think South Africa is more than capable of challenging that.
We formulate for the skin we actually see here: a wide range of skin tones, pigmentation concerns, high UV exposure and climates that can range from humid coastal heat to dry Highveld winters. Those aren't secondary considerations for us. They're where we start.
Winning Gold at the Glamour Beauty Awards and the GQ Grooming Awards was also a meaningful sign that local consumers and experts are willing to back a South African brand that delivers results. More than anything, I want young South African scientists and entrepreneurs to see that world-class skincare can be developed here too.
What ingredients or technologies are particularly central to the BiomeRenew range, and what do they do for the skin?
Our hero active is Lactosporin, a postbiotic derived from the fermentation of Bacillus coagulans. It helps calm the skin, supports a balanced microbiome and strengthens the skin's natural defences.
We've built the rest of the range around that foundation, using established ingredients such as ceramides, niacinamide, salicylic acid and hyaluronic acid. Each has a different role, from supporting the skin barrier and hydration to addressing congestion and uneven tone.
The idea is to bring fermentation science and familiar, well-researched actives together. It's not about choosing one approach over the other. It's about how they work together.
BiomeRenew focuses on supporting the skin's microbiome. What role do postbiotics play in the range, and why are they important for healthy skin?
Your skin is home to billions of microorganisms, and when that community is balanced, the skin tends to be stronger and more resilient. Things such as harsh cleansing, over-exfoliation, stress, pollution and unsuitable products can disrupt that balance, which can show up as breakouts, sensitivity, redness or dullness.
Postbiotics are beneficial compounds produced by bacteria. One of the advantages of using them in skincare is that, unlike live probiotics, they don't require live bacteria to remain stable in the product.
Personally, they're an important part of where skincare is going because they allow us to think beyond treating an individual symptom. It's about creating the right conditions for the skin to function well.
How do ingredients such as ceramides, niacinamide, salicylic acid and hyaluronic acid complement the range's microbiome-focused approach?
They each have a specific job. Ceramides help support the skin barrier and reduce moisture loss, while niacinamide can help with uneven tone, the appearance of pores and barrier function. Salicylic acid helps clear congestion, making it particularly useful for breakouts, and hyaluronic acid helps draw water into the skin for hydration and comfort.
The key is how those ingredients are used together. Active ingredients can be effective, but too much of a good thing can leave skin feeling stripped or irritated. Our approach is to use them in a way that respects the barrier while still addressing specific concerns.
How does BiomeRenew approach concerns such as acne, pigmentation, sensitivity, dryness and a compromised skin barrier?
We don't necessarily see these as completely separate problems. A compromised barrier and an unbalanced microbiome can contribute to several of them, while inflammation can also play a role in pigmentation, particularly in melanin-rich skin.
So we start by calming and supporting the skin, then address the specific concern. Salicylic acid and niacinamide can help with breakouts and congestion, niacinamide can target uneven tone, while ceramides and hyaluronic acid support dryness and the barrier.
The aim is to address the concern without creating another problem in the process.
For someone dealing with multiple skin concerns at once, how would you recommend approaching the BiomeRenew range?
Keep it simple at first. We see a lot of people who have overwhelmed their skin with ten-step routines and several active ingredients at once.
I'd start with a gentle cleanser, a barrier-supporting moisturiser and daily sunscreen, then give the skin some time to settle. After that, introduce one targeted treatment at a time for your main concern and see how your skin responds before adding anything else.
Consistency is more useful than having a shelf full of products. And if you're not sure what your skin actually needs, that's where our AI skin analysis can help.
You've also introduced AI skin analysis that looks at more than 15 skin metrics. Can you tell us more about how this technology works and how it fits into BiomeRenew's approach to personalised skincare?
A lot of people are essentially guessing when they buy skincare. We look in the mirror, decide what we think the problem is and shop from there. Sometimes we get it right, and sometimes we don't.
Our AI skin analysis uses a photograph of the face to assess more than 15 skin metrics, including hydration, pores, pigmentation, redness, texture, fine lines and oiliness. It then recommends a BiomeRenew routine based on those results rather than simply the concern someone thinks they have.
It also allows users to track their progress over time. As a clinician, I believe good treatment starts with good assessment, so the idea was to make that process more accessible.
What does being available at Clicks mean for the accessibility of BiomeRenew, particularly for consumers who may be discovering the brand for the first time?
It's a major milestone for us. Clicks is already part of how many South Africans shop for their health and beauty needs, so being available there means people don't have to search for us online to discover microbiome-focused skincare.
It's also an opportunity to make the science more accessible. Not everyone knows what a postbiotic is, and they shouldn't have to. We've invested in training beauty advisors so that customers can ask questions and get help finding a routine that makes sense for their skin.
What would you like the next chapter of BiomeRenew's journey to look like?
I'd like BiomeRenew to become a brand people associate with balanced, healthy skin in South Africa, and eventually take that story beyond our borders.
That means continuing to invest in research, expanding the range thoughtfully rather than simply adding products for the sake of it, growing our retail presence and making tools such as our AI analysis even smarter.
Most importantly, I want to keep changing the way we think about skincare. There is a lot of focus on quick fixes and aggressive treatments, but I think there's value in understanding the skin as a living system and working with it. If we can help people feel more confident in their skin while doing that, then we're moving in the right direction.
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